[ozstutz]

How does one determine what year an early Stutz (Bearcat?) T Head engine is - it has non detachable heads, and the only number found is a 2 letter sequences, then 3 numbers after that - this is located just above magneto, near valve pushrod area. One of the letters seems a U, and maybe first letter is a G,
thanks from Australia

[Layden B]

G series would be 1919. Does this engine have 4 valves per cylinder or 2? A 4 valve engine would have 8 screw in plugs on top down each side.

[ozstutz]

Motor is 4 cylinder on one piece alloy crankcase with 2 non detachable head cast iron barrels, each with 4 screw in fittings above I suppose each valve - 4 valves down both sides of engine with I suppose a cam each side running them. At the front of the motor you can see how they would be driven, with an external oil line feeding each. Bosch magneto one side, water pump etc the other side driven by shafts out of front cover, gear assenbly. Water outlets out top of each barrel assembly, that come out of a large central brass fitting. Fan is flat belt driven, supported by plain looking 2 leg pedestal/bracket. No provision for bellhousing starter.

[geojunkie]

Being cast in pairs, this is a Wisconsin T head engine, 2 valves per cylinder, which were used in the early Stutz 4 cylinder automobiles through 1916. I will check my reference book, but your numbers sound incorrect. There are in the right location though. I have a 1915 serial number AI 1190 for example. Wisconsin made very similar engines for other companies, notably FWD trucks. This may be one of those. A photo of the cast iron cylinders would make that immediately apparent, as the FWD engines had a longer water jacket.

[ozstutz]

I do not have many pictures of early Stutz T Head 4 cylinder motor, but the waterjackets look same as those shown in pictures of early Stutz motors. The chassis/frame front crossmember is still at front of engine, and it looks like it meets the side rails with 2 large rivets at each end - do not know if this helps - I can check tomorrow and measure width of crossmember, and also how far rivets are apart. The person I got the remains from had a real old b/w photo of supposed car, and it was from memory an open car with large old centre lock wire wheels - a real early roadster I think. It came from one of Aust's richest old money farming areas. It now has a wrong later carby on it, and the alloy intake manifold is basically same diameter each half from carby to blocks, not as sculptured as one's shown in pictures of early Bearcats.

I can send photos, but do not know if this forum allows/provides for that?

I grabbed the remains because I would like to build up as much as possible of a correct car - my first old/only cars were a 1930 A Ford Roadster, and a 1923 Dodge 4 - old big 4 cylinder cars have real character, and if not a Stutz, my hope was a 1914 Cadillac with the 2 speed diff - these remains I became aware of 2 years ago, got the chance to buy them last month.

enough from Australia for now - any help re i-d ing this, and where best to find any other bits much appreciated - I now have later higher performance 50s-70s cars, so this is maybe me trying to recreate the first fun I had with my cars when just a teenager not realising how much of my life I would waste on having fun, working on, old cars !!!?

Christopher

[imported_Paul Freehill]

Christopher

You are describing FWD truck style mounts, U is also a serial number for the truck engines.
Will you sell or trade this engine for a similar engine? I have a need for one.

Thank You
Paul Freehill
stutzspec@aol.com

[Ivan_Saxton]

Hugh Guthrie has a restored 1916 Bearcat in use in Melbourne, and I can put you in touch with him if you contact me, either through the forum's private mail, or by phone, which is listed in Telstra's directory.
Hugh is very helpful, and has had his car since the '50's. Another owner has a spare transaxle here, which could be used to help build another car. Fred Edwards, John Ryder and I are cooperating in making parts we need to build the later 4 cyl cars, and some of this may be applicable.
From what you say I would discount FWD. FWD engine mounts in a subframe, not to the chassis rails, and the crankcase arms are much narrower. I had an FWD which I let go to the National War Museum in Canberra several years ago because they needed one. You may be close enough the look at that one for confirmation. (Do be aware that FWD engines have been used overseas to build cars.) If you have the front of the original chassis it is quite feasible to build the rest to it using Hugh's for measurements. We will help you however we can. Good luck to you; and you will have fun doing something very worthwhile.
Ivan Saxton