1939 lincoln zephyr

Ray Kuntz · February 19th, 2009

I would like to replace some of the glass in my zep, such as the right rear window which has a crack. Wing vents are delaming around the edges, same with the two rear windows. The rear vent windows are seperating around the edges.
My front floor panels have small pin holes and cracks.
I'm also looking for a couple of bumper bolts.

I have a round hole in my fire wall to the engine compartment. It has a flang at about a 22 1/2 degree angle. I believe it has something to do with the heater. I can't figure out what it may have connected to in the engine compartment.

DizzyDale · February 19th, 2009

Hey Ray,I do not know how carried away you want to get with your parts replacement[correctness]???I believe correct dated glass can be obtained from Saunders in Oregon.Depending how you want to fix your floor, correct pans can be bought from Paul Bradley in Noth Carolina.I think the Zephyr uses the same football shaped stainless clad bolt as a V8 Ford.Hope this helps.diz

DADDIO65 · February 19th, 2009

Ray,
I too had some pin holes in my floor. Rather than spending a ton of money on a new floor, I had it Linex coated. Not only did it strengthen the floor, it will NEVER rust. I then scraped the undercoat from the rear and re-applied it to the floor boards. If you are going to make a top quality show car out of yours, then I don't recommend the linex. However, if you are going to have fun with it, no one will ever be the wiser. Put your carpet over it and it's as good as new.
The round hole in your firewall is there for the "air heater" there are a series of tubes attached to a heat exchanger that runs off of your exhaust for heating purposes.

Ray Kuntz · February 23rd, 2009

Daddio
Thanks for your idea. I think I may give it a go. Before you applied the Linex, how clean was the surface......

Ray

CBoz · February 23rd, 2009

Regarding the heater system,see the pics toward the bottom of the page. These are from a late '37, but I don't think the '39 was much (if any) different.

http://www.mindspring.com/~bozarth/id6.html

DADDIO65 · February 23rd, 2009

I completely wire brushed the whole floor surface. Then I de-greased it with 3M adheasive remover. It is expensive stuff, but it will take off even the toughest grease, undercoat, or glue. Make sure you have good ventilation, or you'll be higher than a kite. I had both pieces of my transmission covers done as well. Make sure they dont spray over your bolt holes for your tranny cover, that stuff is bullett proof and hard to remove. I went up to the seam on the fire wall, and back to the top edge of the rear seat riser on the floor. I chose to tape off the door sills that are screwed into the floor, that way if I ever need to remove them, I still can. I can send pictures if you'd like.

Ray Kuntz · February 24th, 2009

Daddio65

It sounds to me like you did a perfect job.
Pictures would be nice if you have any spare time. A few pictures are always worth a thousand words.
Ray

DADDIO65 · April 3rd, 2009

Ray,
Here are the pictures I promised.. Sorry for the delay! At one time someone coated the floor with a "tar" like material. The orange you see, I'm assuming is an anti-rust paint. I completely stripped the tar from the floors to allow the Linex to stick. The floors need to be 100% free of any dirt or petroleum based products. I assume this is not a standard practice for a show car, however, with my limited budget, this will outlast most of the steel on the car. I completely scraped the undercarriage of the car and re-undercoated it as directed in the Lincoln Authenticity Manual.. Let me know what you think.
Jeff

CBoz · April 3rd, 2009

Looks great, Daddio. And it would work just fine on a show car since I don't know *anyone* who pulls up the carpet. From the factory, the cars had an undercoating applied on the bottom side, primarily as a sound deadener, but as we all know it didn't do anything to stop rust due to internal leaks.

April 4th, 2009

Dumb question. What is "LINUX" and how is it applied?