No doubt this car did not vapor lock when new. Consider that gasoline in 1933 was not as volitle as it is now. Has to do I believe with vapor pressure, though for the life of me I cannot remember whether a higher or lower VP makes it more volitle. Help me out Tod.<P>I had the same problem on a '31 Cad, but of course that had a vacuum tank so the problem was confined to the fuel line, and asbestos wrap solved the problem. If I recall the '33, the fuel line runs from the front of the engine right up the valley between the cylinders, and you can fry eggs in there on a hot day.<P>As a test, the next time you have a hot day carry a bag of ice and a shop towel. When it locks put ice in the towel and chill the fuel line. If it starts there is your problem. If not, next ice down the fuel pump. That worked for me on a '40 Cad. If it is the fuel pump, you may need to build a heat shield.<P>I sincerely believe the problem is caused by today's gasolines. ~ hvs

I have a '33 Lasalle with a V-8 and an updraft carb that starts easy when cold but will not start when hot. The overhead manifolds create an oven in the V-8 valley.<BR>The fuel line is not insulated (Any suggestions?) and I think I have tried all the standard remedies including adding a little diesel fuel. Since the carb sits in the middle of the "oven" rerouting the fuel<BR>line makes no sense. Any help?<BR><P>------------------<BR>1932 Plymouth<BR>1933 LaSalle

[ply33]

On the assumption that the car did not vapor lock when it was delivered from the factory there are a couple of things to look at.<BR><ul><BR>[*]Is the fuel pump putting out full pressure?<BR>[*]Are the fuel lines free of kinks or bends that would trap vapor? A slight continous up slope on the fuel lines will allow bubbles to reach the carb where they will be expelled.<BR>[*]Are there any heat shielding pieces that are missing?<BR>[/LIST]<BR>Just some things to look for. At least you have a great alternate car to drive on hot days. That Plymouth PB was a good car too

Todd and HVS ... thanks for your input.<BR>The fuel pump was rebuilt and tests to spec.<BR>There is a horseshow bend in the fuel line where it enters the carb (fuel pump is at the front of the engine but the carb entrance is from the rear.) There doesn't appear to be any missing heat shields but I don't know if the orginal fuel line was asbestos wrapped.<BR> HVS...frying eggs in that oven would be easy. I think you could put a roast beef under the carb and have it well done when you reached your destination. I tried reducing the volatility of the gas by adding diesel on a 1:20 ratio but I am nervous about doing that and I don't know what would be a correct proportion. <BR> Anybody know a source of asbestos wrap? I am getting the impression this stuff is like R-12.<BR> Todd, the PB is not just a good car but a great one. It is easier to drive around town and you don't have to wait 40 minutes between hot starts like this tank of a LaSalle.<P>------------------<BR>1932 Plymouth<BR>1933 LaSalle

[Ron Green]

You can find a cloth like wrap at most auto stores that sell performance parts or accessories. This wrap is used for high performance exhaust headers and may do the trick? You may want to make a shield that fits under your carb which will protect the heat from boiling the gas.

coldji ~ I used a 1 to 20 mix of diesel to gas in my 1941 Cadillac which for years had a vapor locking problem. I first used it on a hot tour in NC in 1990. It worked well.<BR>Also I was able to turn the starter faster by jumping with 12v and that seemed to overcome the vapor lock.<P>However, a recent carb rebuild by an outstanding mechanic [certainly not me] and heavier battery cables to allow the starter to turn faster, cured my problem. So if the pump is OK you might then check out the carb, and that heat shield under it might be worth a try. But first you might want to check the cables to see that they were not replaced with 12v cables by someone in the past. There is a BIG difference in wire diameter between 6v & 12v cables. ~ hvs<P>PS: That 180 degree bend isn't helping any either, but I don't know what you can do about that.<P>But then these are just my opinions. I have no credentials as a mechanic, just 52 years as a tinkerer.

I have a 36 Packard that also had a problem with vapor lock, and because the car is still 6 volts, it was almost impossible to start when she was hot. To overcome the problem, I installed an electric fuel pump, all the way back by the fuel tank, under the car. Now when the car is hot, I flip the switch and when the pump stops clicking, she starts on the first hit.

Jim ~ Do you have any problem in having the mechanical pump drawing gas through a shut off electric pump? I have often wondered about that and for that reason have hesitated to use the solution you have.~ hvs

[steve@autorest.com]

Mr. Scotland is totally correct, if the car is vapor locking, it is today's gasoline causing the problem. The LaSalle had no heat shields on the gas line or the fuel pump. Make sure that the gas line goes up the front of the engine to the carb and keep it as centered as possible in the valley away from the manifolds. The fuel pump should have the vapor dome on it, it might make a difference. If the pump is working properly with the proper pressure, you can put an electric pump on it with no problem. The mechanical pump will pull through it when turned off, with no problem. We put them on just about all of the cars we service that are used for touring. Make sure it is mounted as near to the gas tank as possible, they are made to push gas. It also helps greatly when your car has been sitting for quite a while. Diesel fuel should help, but as hvs has said, if all is correct with your engine, with the correct cables and a good starter motor etc, the car should start without it.

[steve@autorest.com]

Mr. Scotland is totally correct, if the car is vapor locking, it is today's gasoline causing the problem. The LaSalle had no heat shields on the gas line or the fuel pump. Make sure that the gas line goes up the front of the engine to the carb and keep it as centered as possible in the valley away from the manifolds. The fuel pump should have the vapor dome on it, it might make a difference. If the pump is working properly with the proper pressure, you can put an electric pump on it with no problem. The mechanical pump will pull through it when turned off, with no problem. We put them on just about all of the cars we service that are used for touring. Make sure it is mounted as near to the gas tank as possible, they are made to push gas. It also helps greatly when your car has been sitting for quite a while. Diesel fuel should help, but as hvs has said, if all is correct with your engine, with the correct cables and a good starter motor etc, the car should start without it.