Are the spark advance and throttle quadrant levers on a 1923 Buick supposed to have a friction device to hold them in place? It looks like there is a pocket for a spring and pin that could rub on the quadrant ring but mine are empty. Am I missing something?<P>------------------<BR>Craig H<BR>BCA #37372

Probably yes, you are missing something. When I got my '14 Buick those friction devices were missing. I made them by using two half round keys as used with shafts and gears. Get the proper thickness and slightly round the flat edge to conform to the curve of the quadrant. Then get springs that will fit into the holes already in the arms. Getting the whole thing together can be tricky, but once together pressure holds everything in place. I made that repair 10 years ago and it still is there and working.<P>hvs

Thanks for the tip. This forum seems to be a lot more active for old cars than the Buick forum. I sure appreciate the help as I've never worked on anything older than a 66 mustang and that was twenty years ago. While I was working on this I found that the driving gear at the bottom of the steering column for the advance was cracked and not holding the shaft. It seems to be made of pot metal or aluminum. I can order a set for $90 or I thought I might try to cast one from the original as it is just split and both pieces are intact. Do you think there would be too much srinkage from the original for a casting to work?

[aqh]

I USED A PIECE OF INSULATION FIBER LIKE IS USED IN THE ELECTRICAL INDUSTRY. I FASHIONED IT LIKE A "T". THE LEG WAS SHAPED TO FIT THE BORE IN THE LEVER. BY PLACING A PIECE OF SANDPAPER ON THE "D" SECTOR, AND THE FRIVTION PIECE IN PLACE, ONE CAN SAND THE PIECE TO THE EXACT ARC OF THE "D" SECTOR. THERE IS A LOT LESS WEAR USING FIBER RATHER THAN METAL TO METAL.<P>AQH<P>------------------<BR>arnold.hager@fnc.fujitsu.com

I forgot something in my previous post. The original pieces in the levers had a protrusion that fit inside the spring to hold it all in place. In the case of my repair, I drilled a hole in the "key" and inserted a piece of a nail cut to the proper length to replicate the protrusion needed to make it permanent. Sorry for that oversight, but it has been a long time since I did that job. <P>If you go with the fibre insulating material, then you can fabricate it all as one piece. ~ hvs

HVS and AQH: Can you recall the approximate dementions of the part that rubs on the ring? Is it grooved to wrap around the ring as well?<BR>Thanks,<P>------------------<BR>Craig H<BR>BCA #37372

[aqh]

I HAPPEN TO HAVE MINE DISASSEMBLED. THE CROSS BAR TO THE "T" IS 3/4" X 3/16" IN THE MIDDLE AND TAPERED TO SLIGHTLY MORE / LESS DEPENDING ON INSIDE OR OUTSIDE SHOE. TO MY KNOWLEDGE THE CONTACT SURFACE IS FLAT. THE THICKNESS IS DERTERMINED BY WHAT WILL MOVE EASILY IN THE SLOT ON THE TWO LEVERS. THE BASE OF THE "T" SHOULD BE ROUND AND MOVE EASILY IN THE BORE WITHOUT THE SPRING. MY SPRING IS FAIRLY STIFF AND HOLDS THE SETTING.<BR>NEED MORE INFO, LET ME KNOW.<P>AQH

AQH said it all. There is nothing I can add since I am talking about a '14 which probably has different dimensions. I felt the theory was the same for both years but the dimensions are probably different. ~ hvs

Thanks for all the help. This forum is better than having Harrahs' car collection next door!<P>------------------<BR>Craig H<BR>BCA #37372