Electric Fuel Pump?

[ronbarn]

Original: Vacuum tank and electrical system is 6V positive ground. Will eventually get vacuum tank operational but need a temporary fix. Trying to find an electric fuel pump that will provide a regulated flow or a shut-off when no more fuel is needed (i.e. back pressure cut-off). I promise that I will work on the vacuum pump but would appreciate recommendations for source of electric pump - brand, model number, etc. would be appreciated. Thanx!

[RoadsterRich]

Ron,

I believe they are called Bellow's pumps. They are a pump on demand type pump, I've used them in the past and they have worked well in my applications. I'll look around for the invoice for the last one I bought (a few years back). It came with an built in adjustable regulator (2 to 4psi I think was the range, others were available). As I recall it can be used with an existing pump or stand alone. I'll post the details as soon as I dig out the paperwork.

Rich

PS: I'm no expert and their may be good reasons to (or not to) use them, but they have worked for me.

[RoadsterRich]

Ron,

The pump I used was made by Walbro. It says it is a "6 volt low pressure pump". It is adjustable from 1.75-4psi. It also has a reference to s "6 volt standard pressure pump" adjustable from 4 to 6psi. They also make these pumps in 12 volt models as well. The one I have works with either negative or positive ground. It says it is a "Walbro bellows pump". Interstingly I found JC Whitney has a 6 Volt one, but it says it is 4 1/2 to 7psi, likely higher than you will need. The link for it is:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=4667&BQ=vn

I think I paid around $40 for the last one I bought however that was a few years back. As I said, others may have more knowledge, but I do know these have worked in the applications I used them for. The description at JC Whitney talks a little about how they work.

Rich

[Jay Wolf]

Ron
On my 1916 Elgin I hooked it up so it would run both ways.
I found it I had the pressure over about 1.5 lb the carb would leak.
I used a electric pump and a separate regulator.
I ran everything though the Vacuum tank and the only way you could tell is I had to put a shut of on the tank vent to close it off when the pump was used.
2 days before I sold the car the pump went out; I just went to Autozone and bought the only 6 volt pump they had, with the regulator it worked.
It seemed to me it was expensive, but now a days I think everything is expensive.
I hid the pump and regulator under the car between the running board skirt and the frame.

If you?re interested I can draw it out for you when I see you at Hershey.

I'll look around I used to have a spare regulator.

[tuckyman]

I used a small one that I put in an old vacuum tank. Got it from Mac's antique Ford parts. Works fine.

[tin_knocker]

I might have missed this point somewhere along the line, but can you install the electric punp in the existing line and expect your mechanical pump pull fuel through it when the electric is off?

Darn good question. I have wondered that for years and have held off installing some pumps I already have for want of that info. ~ hvs

[6219_Rules]

It is my understanding that the electric will pull from the tank and supply fresh gas to the mechanical pump. The original pump should be in good condition but may not have enough pull to fill the carb after sitting. Mine is installed at the gas tank with a filter. It sends gas to the engine. Fortunately my mechanical pump is still good, although a little leaky. There is a manual switch hidden under the dash to activate the electric. I rarely have to do it. The only time is in hot weather when I get the problem of purcolation common with the old flat heads.

[stude8]

I have been watching this commentary and will add my experiences. I had a 1930 Studebaker with an electric fuel pump "Backup" installation where the AC diaphragm pump was between the tank (Also lower than the tank to guarantee it was self priming, still concealed on the inner frame rail)and engine fuel pump. It was only used to replenish the carb when the car sat for long periods (months) unused. When the electric pump power was off the mechanical engine pump pulled through it easily and I never had a problem with the setup.

Now for a vacuum tank arrangement I did a serious installation on a 1920 Mercer for a friend who wanted a turn key setup with electric backup pump in case the vac tank failed. The vac tank was restored by a gentleman from Essexville,MI ? who I understand has since passed away (this was in 1993). The vac tank to this day works flawless even on hot summer days with Illinois gas-a-hol fuels. But never the less I built an electric pusher pump feed to the vac tank parallel with the existing feed line and added a return line to insure fresh (cool) fuel flow at all times from the tank. Attached is a diagram I drew showing fuel line connections, check valves and pump location. The item called selector valve is a modern pickup truck dual tank selector valve that replaced the usual manual valve the Mercers had for the behind the seat exposed round fuel tanks. Like I said we have never had to use it yet but it does function fine. Stude8

[Al Smeraldo]

I have an electric pump connected in series with the mechanical pump. I only use it to prime the carb after the car has been sitting for awhile. The mechanical pump seems to have no trouble pulling fuel through it. This is on a 56 Ford.

[Ken G]

Please forgive me if this is a silly question, but why would you want to replace the original vacuum-operated pump? My Rover has one, and it seems to work fine. Yes, if you run it dry you probably need to prime it, but that doesn't seem a big deal to me. You know at least that the pressure at the carburetor (with gravity feed from the pump) is no more than what the car manufacturer expected. The only disadvantage, perhaps, is the need to turn off the fuel when leaving the car for long periods, but an electric valve would be a better solution. I would have thought in fact that the vacuum pump is probably more reliable than an electric one, and that the effort going into installing an electric one would be better spent dismantling and cleaning the vacuum one, which is pretty simple (so I am led to believe from my cousin and from diagrams, because I admit I haven't done it myself).

Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)

[Amphicar BUYER]

Not a "silly question" if you don't know the answer!

Besides being able to fill the carb, it can be very useful when the original one craps out, or if you have vapor locking issues. I have one piggy-backed on my Amphicar's original, works fine.

[SalG (Sal Grenci)]

Ron, I am by no means an expert on this, but why not get your fuel pump rebuilt by Arthur Gould 631-754-5010. He is in the process of retiring and selling the business, but I saw him Thursday and he will be at Hershey.

[Jay Wolf]

I think people are getting way off track.
Ron was talking about a vacuum tank system. They do not have a fuel pump at all they rely on engine vacuum to pull gas up from storage tank to a small tank on the firewall then lets gravity feed the carb. When you let them sit of run out of gas it take a lot of cranking (usually hand cranking) or the use of the prime cups if equipped to get it going.
Any small vacuum leak in the system with stop it from working.
Good system when working but they can be a real pain to diagnose and repair.