62 New Yorker won't start.

[imported_AndyC]

Have a 62 New Yorker that refuses to start. Has been running fine until last week, went to start and engine turns, tries to run but as soon as key is released it goes dead. Obviously getting fuel and spark. Probably the ignition, but any suggestions on trouble shooting, or other causes ????

[imported_pete324rock]

is there a ballast resistor? When the key is turned,the ballast resistor is bypassed for extra juice to the coil,and when you let the key off to run,the power is switched to go thru the ballast resistor because the coil enjoys less voltage so is won't get hot as it is on a long time thru normal use.

[keiser31]

Originally Posted By: pete324rock

is there a ballast resistor? When the key is turned,the ballast resistor is bypassed for extra juice to the coil,and when you let the key off to run,the power is switched to go thru the ballast resistor because the coil enjoys less voltage so is won't get hot as it is on a long time thru normal use.

I agree with pete324rock...I have run across the same problem with past Chrysler products of that era.

[imported_AndyC]

Originally Posted By: keiser31

Originally Posted By: pete324rock

is there a ballast resistor? When the key is turned,the ballast resistor is bypassed for extra juice to the coil,and when you let the key off to run,the power is switched to go thru the ballast resistor because the coil enjoys less voltage so is won't get hot as it is on a long time thru normal use.

I agree with pete324rock...I have run across the same problem with past Chrysler products of that era.

That was my first thought. Had a dodge dart that had chronic ballast resistor problems. Only difference was, when resistor went bad on dart, it wouldn't even turn over. Always carry a spare resistor. Switched them with no sucess.

[joe_padavano]

While it may not be the resistor, it certainly sounds like a problem in the RUN circuit from the ignition switch, as opposed to the START circuit. Temporarily connect a wire directly from the +12V battery terminal to the + terminal of the coil. Be sure that there is a toggle switch and fuse in this wire. Now try to start the car. If it stays running, you've isolated the problem to either the ignition switch or the wire from the switch to the resistor or from the resistor to the coil. The switch in the test wire is so you can turn the engine off. [img]<>/wink.gif[/img]

[keiser31]

Does that car have a "fusible link" in the line? Look at that, too if there is one.

[simplyconnected]

Turn your key on (without starting it) and see if your coil is hot.
If it isn't, trace the wire back to the resistor and check there. Check both sides of the resistor. If one side has 12-volts and the other sided doesn't, you have a bad reisitor.

If neither side is hot, keep tracing back to your ignition switch. That's where it all starts.
Hope this helps. - Dave

[imported_AndyC]

Thanks for all the sugestions. Will try tomorrow.

[imported_AndyC]

Thanks to all for all your suggestions. Problem solved, and i really feel DUMB.
Turns out that the connection where the wiring harness come out the firewall was just loose enough that it would turn over but not run.
ANOTHER LESSON LEARNED.

[simplyconnected]

Glad you found the problem, and it was easy.