1952 Buick Roadmaster Questions

[Ray RI]

I have recently bought an original and unmolested 1952 Buick Roadmaster with the 320 straight 8 and Dyna-Flow transmission which someone started to work on and then gave up on for unknown reasons. This is out of the norm for me as I've never owned a car this old before so a lot of things are a bit different than I'm used to.

The few questions I have are these:

1. What weight motor oil should I use in it. I haven't changed it yet due to not being sure.

2. What fluid should I be using in the transmission should I have to add any. As of right now the fluid is clean and does not smell burnt. Also, if I'm not mistaken, the power steering uses the same fluid as the transmission. Am I correct?

I want to make sure I have the right fluids on hand should I need them.

3. How hard is it to rebuild a master cylander? I've never done this before. I've already got the parts to do it but I don't want to get into it if better left to someone who has done it. Once that is repaired, I should have the brakes working again.

4. My brake lights are not working. Do they operate off a pressure switch where the fluid in the system activates it rather than it being totally mechanical like on more modern cars?

Other than these items, I've pretty much diagnosed and/or fixed a lot of the problems the car had and once these few things are finished, I hopefully will be on the road with it in time to enjoy it for the summer.
Ray

[1939_buick]

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[D Yaros]

You have not had a lot of answers. I have no Buicks, but do have a few old cars. In my 62 Olds I run 20w oil. However, straight weights are very hard to find these days. I had to order a few cases on line from United Lube. I am sure you will be safe with 10w30. If it is available, I would go with 15w30.

On the tranny you need Dexron be it Dexron I, II or III. They are all backward compatible.

Yes the power steering unit also uses ATF.

Now the brake light. There should be a mechanical switch under the dash, just above the brake pedal. It may be out of adjustment. I am not aware of any pressure switch to activate the brake lights.

Can't help you on the master cylinder. Since you have all the parts, you are the best judge of the degree of difficulty. I have to suspect it is on the level of rebuilding a fuel pump, and far less difficult than rebuilding a carburetor?

The one piece of advice I would offer is to beg, borrow or steal a vintage repair manual; such as Motor or Chilton. You will find yourself referring to it constantly.

Good luck, and enjoy!

[Dave@Moon]

1952 Buicks did use a pressure switch for the brake lights.

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[Rusty_OToole]

Chances are, your car has never used anything but 10W30 motor oil. It came on the market about the time your car was built. It was the default choice at all Buick dealers and garages through the fifties, sixties and seventies.

Today's oils are cutting down on the zinc additives, not so good for pushrod OHV motors like yours. So some people are using Shell Rotella 15W40or other diesel rated oil.Or adding a zinc additive.

Trans and power steering both use Dexron fluid.

It's not too hard to rebuild a master cylinder. Clean it carefully and hone the inside then put it back together the way it came apart. Do not use anything to clean the inside of the cylinder except alcohol, methyl hydrate or rubbing alcohol. Blow it dry before assembling. Use brake fluid to lubricate the parts as you put it together.

If the inside is pitted by rust you need to replace the cylinder. You can get away with a few small pits but if it is real rusty, get a new one. If new ones are not available you can have to old one sleeved but chances are you can get a brand new Wagner cylinder from any good auto parts dealer in 3 days.

Brake lights are on a pressure switch on the master cylinder. These are a common failure point but for most cars, are not very expensive.

[Pete Phillips]

There is a very active chapter of the Buick Club of America in Rhode Island and eastern Massachusetts--the Minuteman Chapter. They will be hosting the Buick Club's national meet in Danvers, Massachusetts in July of 2011, and it would be wonderful to have a '52 Roadmaster in attendance.
Pete Phillips
Head Judge, 2011 BCA National Meet

[Ray RI]

Thanks all for the info.

Pete... I will have to keep that in mind. I don't know if I will have the car in shape enough to make that trip or not yet. If things work out right for me, I might just try to make it. If possable, could you send me any info you have for the Minuteman Chapter so that I may look into it?

Ray RI

[1939_buick]

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[First Born]

Ray, I just saw your youtube video of the first drive. Fantastic. Can you fill us in on the things you have done to the old girl? We really like to see these things.

You mentioned power stearing. Lucky guy. That is one thing I would like to add to my '50. Any possibility you can post some engine compartment photos showing the pump and related belts, pullys, etc..?

Thanks
Ben

[Ray RI]

I'll be going out in the garage this evening so I'll see what I can do for the pics.

So far I've replaced/rebuilt everything in the brake system except for the metal lines and e-brake cables. The metal lines were all done before I got the car. Had the fuel pump rebuilt. Changed the oil and spark plugs. Replaced the gas tank with a new one and had the fuel sending unit restored two weeks ago by a guy in NY while I was out there on vacation.

I currently am awaiting the shipment of the new carpet kit for it so I can put all the interior back in place. When I got the car, all of the interior was wrapped in plastic. Previous owner had all the upholstery redone and never finished putting it together and the rus were missing. The only thing left of the original fabric is the headliner which is still in decent enough shape for now and eventually I'll have that replaced.

She still needs a few things. My next project on the motor wil be replacing the water pump as it is leaking around the shaft seal a bit and checking/cleaning the cooling system. Last thing I'll probably do is finish fixing the exhaust leaks and have the carb rebuilt.

Basically my goal is to make her a good driver and enjoy her for a bit until I can get enough money together to have her totally restored to her former glory.

[Ray RI]

First Born...

Here's a link to the album where all the pics of my car are.

1952 Buick Roadmaster - a set on Flickr

I added the best shots of the power steering I could get. Hope they help.

Ray RI

[First Born]

Thanks, Ray. Looks complacated.

Ben

[1949 Roadmaster]

Ray, just watched your video also....great job! I just picked up a '49 Roadmaster two days ago; can't wait to get it on the road.

[Rusty_OToole]

First born, if your car is set up properly you will not miss power steering. First you have to have the front end checked out and worn parts replaced as necessary. Then, get a good alignment job. You will find the car transformed. If it is still too hard to steer, pump up the tires to 32 pounds. If it is still too hard to steer, add a steering damper and have the alignment redone to give the minimum possible caster. You will be amazed how nice your car drives if everything is to factory new spec.

O and don't forget the shock absorbers, on your Buick they are a lever action type that needs to be filled with oil but should not need to be replaced.

When your car was new old men and ladies drove them, the steering was easy unless the car was at a dead stop.

[First Born]

Rusty, thanks for chiming in. And I am an OLD man.LOL.
Where I really miss the power stearing is turning at street corners. Having to use both hands. I have gotten used to "palming" the wheel on my Park Avenue and sure can not do that with the '50.
Shock absorbers!! The oil will not stay in mine long enough to see if they absorb shocks! Replacement on the agenda.

Thanks
Ben

[Rusty_OToole]

If the car is moving at all, it should not be that hard to steer. Check your tire pressure. Try 32 or even 35 pounds for now. When you get your new shocks installed you can have your front end checked over, any repairs done and an alignment. You will be thrilled with how nice your car drives, it really does make that much difference.

Another thing, if you get new tires, try and find a big tire shop that can true up your wheels. Most old wheels are slightly bent and can never be perfectly balanced. If they are trued up within 1/8 runout (factory spec) your car will ride smooth as glass at all speeds.

[First Born]

Thanks, Rusty.

Ray, did not mean to hijack your thread, Sorry.

Ben

[Ray RI]

No worries. Sometimes adds to my knowledge as well!