55 322/Dynaflow tips/pointers needed

Just about ready to assemble my 322..all stock less 56 cam/lifters....any advice??? Guys at Classic Buick told me to put washers under head bolts....any truth to this or any other suggestions???<P> Drop me an email...dlw29@hotmail.com<P> Thanks, Don

[DENNISWEBER47]

I DONT KNOW ABOUT THE WASHERS, BUT AM INTERESTED IN WHAT THE '56 CAM AND LIFTERS, WILL DO FOR YOU ?? THANKS DENNIS

I was told by Classic that the overall package of using 56 stuff would be cheaper than 55 stuff as lifters are 10 a piece for 55 stuff and another 45 for cam as opposed to 56 lifters being 4 bucks each, also 55 lifters are alone from what I have heard. I also had to change to 56 pushrods as lifter height is different, 56 lifters are the same thru 66 nailhead...may be used in later 430/455 engines, unsure of that but is definatly same thru 66, makes it easier to get if needed. As for cam specs., shop manual gives none for 55, just brg. dia.<BR> Has anyone out there had head bolts leaking??? This is reason I was told to get washers due to bolt stretch and tapping into water galleys....<P> Hope this helps...Don

[DugsSin]

Hey Don<BR> If the problem is from bolt stretch wouldn't new bolts be a better fix?<BR>Just assembled my 364 with stock bolts and no washers. Will read replys with great interest. Doug

Don<BR>I never used washers...just put sealer or teflon tape on the threads of the bolts that go into a water jacket. I also put sealer on the bolts that go to any cavity...oil or water i.e. waterpump, timing cover, motor mount bracket to block, water manifolds, oil filter mount,etc. Your new motor will stay clean and dry.<BR>Willie

Hi Guys...Thanks for the tips...will let you know how things turn out...Anyone got a set of 56 pushrods for sale.....Drop me an email @ dlw29@hotmail.com (its still an L)<P> Thanks, Don

[Bill Stoneberg]

Willie,<BR>What kind of Sealer do you use ? I am about to start putting my engine together and dont want it to leak or have to come apart again.<BR>Bill

Permatex- Non- Hardening gasket sealer or equiv. (the dk. brown colored stuff).<BR>Use on any bolt going into a water cavity.<P>Don 55.<BR> I would have to say your brave to mix and match valve train parts.<BR>Parts are not usually listed as different unless theres a reason.<BR>I have no knowledge of the paticular motor your working on but I have built enough engines to know you don't mess with valve train geometry.<BR>Ya, thats a big dif. in price, but it won't mean squat if you trash your newly rebuilt engine because of wrong parts.<BR>Just an opinion from someone who learned the hard way!<BR>Good luck.<BR>

Dale, I have been told and sizes concur that....56 and up lifters are different in ht. than 55 as 55 stuff is all alone in lifters...am also using 56 pushrods too so overall height from bottom of lifter to far end of pushrod is the same from what I have heard and checked between the 2. Am using 56 cam....no specs in the manual, was also advised to use 56 cam along with lifters,etc.<BR> As of now all I have done is the crank has been laid, if anyone has any advice from trial and error, let me know before I assemble thing thing as I dont wanna do this again....BTW, the 56 p.rods I got new from Classic are beefier than the 55's, are std prod. ones also beefier than originals??they are a larger o/s dia.<P> Thanks in advance, Don55<P> Drop me an E @ dlw29@hotmail.com

Bill<BR>Dale beat me with the right answer on the sealer.<BR>Dale <BR>On the valve train components: You can use 56 in a 55 if you use both lifters and push rods which will give the same overall length. Also you should (theoretically) use a 56 cam and distributor gear since the 56 cam is cast iron (55is steel)<BR>Willie

Sounds like you guys have the lifter-pushrod combo worked out.<BR>Just wanted to be sure you weren't taking advice from one of them "ya, it will fit" types without researching it.<BR>Like I said I have not built that type of motor, but one final thought would be clearance of the pushrods through their guides or holes since the ones you will be using are larger in diameter.(including not bottoming out in the slot or hole at full lift).<BR>Sounds like a great project, keep up the good work!<BR>Dale

WHEW!!!! I was having a hard time sleeping last night ....envisioning my motor going to pieces on its first fire!!! <BR> OK, The cam I got is a 56, a regrind from a local part supplier my machinist uses, NOW, From what I have read, I need a 56 distributor gear as I have the 55 unit, What is the distributor number on the tag as I got a parts car when I bought my project and it did have the 56 trans (alum. B/Housing), trans has been rebuilt in my 55....I pulled the whole unit as I tried to do a valve grind to get it through the summer...no compression...better, but not enough!! You should have seen the pistons!!!!! I have a pen holder that is cracked worse than the Titanic!!!! Block got bored .040!!! Thank God it didnt fire when I was trying!!! <BR> I need a 56 Distributor gear and/or 56 distrib. # as the starter and generator I have off the parts car were not same as 55 by my book....Does anyone know of the casting number for the 56 322 and 265 harmonic as the parts car motor had a cone shaped balancer...crank number for it???/<P><BR> I will check to make sure the pushrods have good clearance thru the heads though....does anyone have a orig. set kicking around I could get for a steal type deal as I bought new ones and would love nothing more than to get some $$$ back!!!! <P> Thanks to all of you guys out there...I would be up in arms if I hadnt found this website!!!!...Anyone out there watching Survivor or Big Brother??? Hows that for a change of subject!!!!!!!!!!!<P> Drop me an E @ dlw29@hotmail.com<P> Thanks Loads Guys, Don55