Positive Battery Cable

[Richard S]

My positive cable keeps corroding. I clean it, polish it, say prayers over it, and yet in a few weeks it is funky again. My 90 is VERY sensitive to drops in battery voltage and will start to behave erratically to signal me that it is time to look at the connection. First, is there a cause for this, and hopefully, prevention? Second, I looked at rockauto.com for the price of a new cable. $70 for the first design and $100 for the second!!!?? Is that possible??

[Richard S]

should have searched the archives before posting. In so doing I note that the positive cable is indeed a Defense Department item at what could be a century note. Lots of posts discussing corroded cable. Sahien advised using vaseline to minimize this. Does one put this on before putting in the cable, or after it is assembled onto the battery. I also note that gold plated side post plugs are now available at $4 vs. 50 cents for the stock. Are they significantly better are resisting corrosion?

[EDBS0]

There also is information in the archives about concealed corrosion under the cable insulation that is not evident until you destroy it by taking it apart. Replace, the bigger (well smaller gauge) the better. My jumper cables are 00s.

[Shelby]

I clean BOTH sides of the plated copper piece that conntect the lead on the battery. Clean Inside the plastic with a dental tool and wire brush. Put in new terminal bolts.

[kennyw]

sorry, but you have a bad battery leaking acid around the terminal. Nothing you can do but replace the battery. Most do not know this! YOU will find that I am right.............Ken>>>>>>>>>yes, I know the battery still reads o.k....

[Motu 56]

Kenny hit this one right on the head. It is extremely easy to over tighten the connectors and there by create a leak. I found a spray especially for these connectors at Autozone that inhibits corrosion.

[Richard S]

I cleaned everything out as well as possible, soaking the whole connecter in a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize the battery acid. Replaced the stud. May try the spray if they have it at local Auto Zone.

[Shelby]

You have to peel back the plastic to get that crud out .

When you put the new battery in don't over torgue the Terminal Bolt.

Some batteries have a helicoil preinstalled to help from strippping out the threads. Good idea if you deconnect the battery terminal a lot.

[padgett]

Ever since my wife insisted on taking the Bonneville to Indiana for a month one winter have been having corrosion related issues.

Finally had to completely disassemble the positive battery cables, peel the plastic back and use a combination of vigorously applied wire brush and a spray can (naturally cannot find now) of battery cable cleaner from WalMart - sprayed an inch in the cap and just let the lead disk from the middle soak for a while. Also replaced the bolts.

Seems to be OK now but there is no substitute for elbow grease.

[DTerry]

Tell me about it. I live in the rust capital. Even the plastic corrodes. And stainless steel ain't. I try to drive the Reatta only when it's dry. So much salt is dumped on the roads that we don't even have freshwater lakes.

[Shelby]

I live in Salt Lake City UT .

We have a lot of salt and they put is on the road.

The cars around here rust very fast. My 3 month old GMC look like a 10 year old from Arizona.

Adventures in corrosion.

[imported_decembro]

hmmm, sounds like Michigan!!

[padgett]

Why when we moved back to Florida in '84 I deliberately picked Orlando because it has a world class airport (job requires) and is at least 50 miles from any salt water. I grew up on the coast and got tired of watching things corrode.

They say that 5 miles from the water is enough. I multiplied by 10 just to be safe.