[Richard S]

Driver's headlight decided not to open. Would not open manually when turning the motor. Decided it was the bellcrank problem described in the FAQ. Made the washer per instructions, took apart the motor, cleaned commutator, lubed, reassembled. Light can be opened manually, but switch does not activate it. The wire from the switch shows same voltage at each pole as the other side, which works. Putting 12 volts to the wire to the motor will retract the light, but not raise it. I thought the light would just keep cycling up and down. Is it wired so that one wire raises and one lowers? This seems possible because there is voltage to both wires all the time I think. Stumped.<BR>Richard

[Greg Ross]

I'm reading from the '88 Service Manual;<BR>Power to the Headlight Door Motor for the drivers side is through a module located immediately behind the Washer Fluid Resevoir/ beneath the relay center.<BR>Figure C page 8A-201-10<BR>Trouble shooting page 8A-102-2 describes this solid state module as a reversing switch. The Module grounds the appropriate wire to either raise or lower the Headlight Door. It senses increased current when the motor reaches the extent of the cycle, open or closed (or bound up mechanically/ or frozen as in the Great White North!) and the Ground path would be switched off.<BR>(DC Motor-reversible)<BR>I've had this happen twice in the past year, once in Buffalo last Summer and again last night. In my case opening the headlight manually has for whatever reason worked, closes properly and reopens on command.<BR>Having done this reading this morning now I'll disassemble my way into the Module and clean the electrical connector. Hopefully it's as simple as that.<BR>Manual talks about test sequences for each Door separately, for the left side;<BR>Connect: Test Lamp<BR>At: Headlight Door Module Connector C2 (Connected)<BR>Condition: Turn Headlights ON and observe Test Lamp<BR>Connect Between D (DK GRN/ Wht) & C (LT GRN/ BLK)<BR>Correct result: Test Lamp lights<BR>If result is correct check for mechanical binding, if no binding check and repair DK GRN/ Wht (577) and LT GRN/ BLK (576) wires for an OPEN<BR>For Diagnosis; See 1<BR>(Test Light doesn't light-I'm assuming)<BR>1) Replace Headlight Door Module.<BR>Added"-Just went out and looked, to get to the Module;<BR>Removal of the Air Box and Snorkel should do it, depending where the connector is!<p>[ 07-07-2002: Message edited by: GM Ross ]

[Richard S]

Thanks, Ross. Nailed on the head. Removed the connector, cleaned and de-oxed. Put back and operates fine. Wonder how long the Barney's washer fix will last.