Driver-side front CV Join / Axle

[imported_Fox W.]

Hello all,

So far I have been pointed to www.car-part.com for this part. Which is a great resource I can see. I am weary of what the actual condition may be. A huge number of the parts are all graded as A, even though the prices vary from $250 to under $50. I imagine not all of these "A" parts are near equal. I feel there is a decent chance that the part I get could have a CV joint that isn't so great, just as mine isn't. I'd like to hear from some people that have experience with this route, and see if I am worrying to much. Or if someone has one to sell that they know was from a low-milage car (or is new) that has a great joint, then let me know. Last thing is, can anyone let me know what other models the Reatta's axles are compatible with? Thank you!

[spamseptictank]

I get my parts at www.rockauto.com
Prices and service are great.
Dave

[crazytrain2]

New for $65

http://www.autozone.com/R,798013/veh...ductDetail.htm

I didn't check Rockauto as Dave suggested but if cheaper there I wouldn't hesitate to order from them. I don't think it worth the gamble to buy used for what you might save though.

[nic walker]

$65.00...Wow ! The link you gave did not show a picture....would you think that the shaft would have both the cv jonts?

[imported_Fox W.]

$65 does seem real cheap, seeing as most places with used are asking closer to $100 for the whole shaft/joint. (per side) Hmm.

[crazytrain2]

I've found Autozone to be extremely competitive within certain product lines (ie. Cardone Rebuilt items-MAF sensor $150 vs Rockauto @ $200 for exact same part) I also don't see how they could list it as a Half Shaft if it didn't have both joints, email em and get them to commit.

Just for grins and giggles heres another source link for $55 and the manufacturers (importer?) website link as well. Sounds like Asian import to me though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/com...au_pf_dp_chart

http://www.gck.com/

It's OOS anyways but for what it's worth thought I would share w/ya

[imported_Fox W.]

Thanks guys. I am not expert on these matters, so could someone let me know if this would work? It claims to be new, OEM. Does this have the actual CV joint in it? It also says to be for an 1988, are the they same?

1988 Reatta OEM shaft on Ebay

Also for consideration:
Eldorado left shaft on Ebay

[crazytrain2]

On the www.autozone.com website
1988 Reatta part number for Drivers side half shaft is 8459N (new)

1989 Reatta part number for Drivers side half shaft is 8463N (new)


So I wouldn't pursue either of those you listed above. Especially not the 1st one (it's only the outer axle or in laymans terms "half of the half shaft")

Thats coming from my vast (and Half Vast) knowledge LOL.

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted By: Fox W.

Thanks guys. I am not expert on these matters, so could someone let me know if this would work? It claims to be new, OEM. Does this have the actual CV joint in it? It also says to be for an 1988, are the they same?

The top link shows only a CV joint. Save yourself some time and get a rebuilt or new halfshaft.

[Leadguy]

I have gotten many parts for various cars from the car-part.com route. It is excellent. It simply checks the nation's plus Canada's salvage yards for parts. I have found that the even the lowest price parts have been very good.
Remember many parts can sit in salvage yards for a long time, and the price often has to do with location and demand.
Also, you can use car-part.com to find out what other vehicles you can get the part from. When the results page shows the part, location, and price, it also shows you what vehicle model and year that the part came from. Those models will be your cross-reference.

[Greg Ross]

As Ronnie recommends, get a remanufactured/ or new.
I've learned alot about CV shafts since I did my transmission swap, in my case having to mix-n-match to adapt for the different spline count outputs from the tranny.
I just bit the bullet and bought new wheel bearings ('89-'91 Reatta) which happens to match the "W" body bearings that my 5-Spd tramsmission came from. I'm hoping this will allow use of a standard axle from the "W" body car instead of having to switch out parts.
I've typically used NAPA remanufactured parts and I think you'll find rebuilt complete 1/2 shafts(after core return) for about $75.00 and New in the $150. range.
No point in messing with used Axles at those prices.

[imported_Fox W.]

Generally I've have had terrible luck with used or any reman. parts. I'm having a mechanic do this, and they were looking for just the joint. Other than ease of installation, is there any drawback to getting only the joint? I suppose that based on the reaction here that CV joints are one of those things where new/reman doesn't make much difference? (Quite unlike pumps, compressors, or starters, so I've found.)

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted By: Fox W.

Generally I've have had terrible luck with used or any reman. parts. I'm having a mechanic do this, and they were looking for just the joint. Other than ease of installation, is there any drawback to getting only the joint? I suppose that based on the reaction here that CV joints are one of those things where new/reman doesn't make much difference? (Quite unlike pumps, compressors, or starters, so I've found.)

Yes, the drawback is your half shaft will have one new CV joint and one that is probably worn just as bad as the one your mechanic wants to replace. He will more than likely charge you more in labor for replacing one CV joint than you could spend to get the reman half shaft.

Why not take some good advice you have been given here and install a new or reman half shaft and be done with it. If your mechanic disagrees, get a new mechanic. After all it is your car.

[imported_Fox W.]

I will indeed, I don't mean to sound as though I reject the advise at all. Not in the least! I only wish to learn the details. Thanks Ronnie!

[simplyconnected]

A half shaft is an automotive term used to describe a drive shaft that goes from a vehicle's differential to one of the driven wheels.

It is called a half shaft because it normally transmits half of the available power from the differential to the wheel it is connected to. That means it has both CV joints. Typically 'drive shaft' refers to the shaft providing power to the differential.

Parts Train
CVU CV Axle Assembly
1989-1991 Buick Reatta"CVU AXLE ASSEMBLY, DRIVER SIDE -- A High Quality Direct Fit Replacement, Remanufactured To OEM Specifications, With Manufacturer's Limited 7-Year Or 70,000-Mile Warranty" Availability: In Stock, Low Price Guarantee

FITS (ENGINE/CHASSIS) SKU PRICE QTY
1989-1991 Buick Reatta CVU5515 $47.98
Core: $32.05
1989: 6Cyl 3.8L Base

Here's all the cars this part fits:
BUICK
1989 - 1991 REATTA
1989 - 1991 RIVIERA

CADILLAC
1989 - 1992 ALLANTE
1989 - 1991 SEVILLE
1989 - 1991 ELDORADO

OLDSMOBILE
1989 - 1991 TORONADO

Hope this helps. For under $50, and with a 7-yr warranty, how can you go wrong?

[imported_Fox W.]

Thank you for that info! I was mainly trying to see if new was possible, as I don't mind paying more. But I haven't had luck finding a new half-shaft. I also notice that a lot of reman parts I've found for all those models within those years offer the part with the variation of w/abs and w/o abs. What is the difference there if ABS was std on these cars? Thanks!

[Greg Ross]

At least one of the listed models, probably Rivera only had an option of ABS brakes so axles are also available without the ABS ring.

[imported_Fox W.]

I didn't know it was optional, gottcha, thanks. [img]<>/smile.gif[/img] Car is in the shop today for brake work. I will return there for the axle once we get a good one.

[imported_Fox W.]

Well I had some bad luck. I got the part from partstrain that simplyconnected showed. Unfortunately their database must be wrong because the one they think fits is not correct. One of the ends is wrong and it wasn't for ABS systems. Now Im worried as to where and who I should get a rebuilt from, as it's hard to know who has the right part.

[Greg Ross]

This is what comes up under AutoZone and I believe you indicated you were interested in "New"
Duralast New / CV Halfshaft 8463N
Other option is/ was to transfer the outer new knuckle to your existing shaft, I think that's what you said was bad. Then transfer the ABS ring from your old 1/2 Shaft to the new one. Fairly simple procedure if the outer knuckle is the same diameter as you old one, and it should be. Oxy/Acetlyne torch to heat the ring and it will literally fall off, reheat it and slide in on to the new Shaft. Probably a good idea to release the boot and pull it back out of the way while handling and slipping the ring on to the new shaft.
Potential Plan "B" for you if you want to consider it. Returning the "core" with some new parts still in the box will be Ok too!

[Stormin]

I just recently went down this road. Autozones listing for "new" axle was really great until I ordered it online and got an email from them 2 days later stating they didn't have it and were cancelling my order!I see you live in California, what part? I found a shop in Socal that installed both axle assemblies,complete, for $150 plus tax.They gave me a lifetime warranty on both axles, including the boots. Now this is not to say that the shop will be around that long, but at least it sounds good. We have been driving the car since then(couple weeks)and everything seems fine.Norm

[imported_Fox W.]

Thanks for the replies. They put my old one back on, but it cost me $140 for their time. Unfortunately out of the 2 times they have test drove my car they have not heard the joint act up. It's been making noise a couple years now, slowly getting worse, but still inconsistent enough that I could drive all day and hear it maybe once.. other days it makes noise a lot.. Most recently it happened when I was going down the high-way, high speed with wheels straight.. first time it did that.. usually it was only at slower speeds when making sharper turns, seemingly especially after using the brakes. They don't even seem to be convinced it's the CV axle since the boots look good and they cannot hear anything when making tight circles, both directions. I suppose it's possible it's a ball-joint or something.. It's coming from the driver-side, no doubt, it's not a rattle or anything like that. It's a series of bumping-thud like sounds that can be felt in the steering wheel. I know when I first got the car it used to do something similar but only when going in reverse with the wheels turned in one direction, and it turned out to be a ball joint I think.. Who knows.. [img]<>/smirk.gif[/img] I suppose I'll keep letting it get worse till it's easy to find. I was only worried that it would be getting unsafe now.

[DAVES89]

Might it be your steering rack and pinion going bad?

[imported_Fox W.]

So far it no longer makes any noise since they reinstalled, so who knows now. The streering rack is about 1.5 years old, so I think that is ok for now. Sorry I don't have anywhere conclusive to go with this for now. The car is mechanically doing very well right now, and so I have directed my attention to continuing to improve other areas.

Thanks!