A/C low on freon

My a/c shuts down to prevent damage because of lack of fluid. Could it just be the sensor or what. I don't see any leaks. If it is low on fluids, then what kind to I have to put in or do I have to change to 134 and what is the cost? <BR>tessann@infi.net

A/C systems can be a real issue with older cars because of the cost of repair. Conversion kits are becoming cheaper, but the least expensive thing to try is finding a garage that will add about 1/2 lb of freon. Give it some time to see if the problem returns.<P>If it does, the garage will give you your options.

You might want to consider a drop-in replacement rather than R-134. From what I understand, changing to R-134 requires replacing a lot of your A/C system. While I haven't tried it myself, the following website has info on a replacement called R-406A: <A HREF="http://www.autofrost.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.autofrost.com/</A> <P>I learned about this via the inventor's website at:<BR> <A HREF="http://ghg.ecn.purdue.edu/" TARGET=_blank>http://ghg.ecn.purdue.edu/</A> <P>I haven't tried it yet, but it is what I am planning to use to recharge my A/C eventually. If someone does try it, I'd be interested to hear how it goes. Has anyone tried this or something like it?

I agree with the post above that you should at least give it one try with a pound or so of R12. If the leak is really bad you may want to consider converting. <BR>I converted a 1989 Reatta to R-134 with the full conversion done by Buick. It was pretty expensive. I think that most everthing was replaced but the the grille (cooling coils) under the dash (whatever it is called). While the new unit did fine, it never got quite as cold as the old R12 unit. The mechanic explained it to me this way. The R134 units never get as cold as the old R12s, but in the new cars this is compensated for by having a larger grille and number of cooling coils under the dash, so more air passes over the chilled coils. Since you can't fit a larger grille under your dash, it will never be quite as cold as the older units. Walley has that car now as well as another 89. He may have a comment on this since he can compare the units side-by-side.<BR>Dave<P>------------------<BR> My Topless Reatta<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/drbuch2000/m...ge/index.html" TARGET=_blank>http://hometown.aol.com/drbuch2000/m...index.html</A>

[wally888]

Tried to compare r-12 and r=134 but neither clutch would kick in!<BR> Guess it's time to start carrying the plants inside.

[bobwhite]

My Reatta requires about a pound every two years. If the loss rate doesn't increase, I will have enough R-12 to last 30 years. The dealers price to repair the system was over $1,000. Seems the seals have a slight leak.

If the leak is small and a shot of R-12 will get you through an entire season, try to stay with it. The R134A requires much higher compressor pressures, which absorb more horsepower for the same cooling. In most cases, the pressure/temperature maps stored in the Reatta BCM will flag a properly operating R134A system as having a failure at some normal condition.<BR> Most of the refrigerent "drop-ins" advertised are propane based. A large blast of potentially explosive gas escaping from the AC system during an accident is a bum deal. The non explosive "drop-ins" are usually corrosive to aluminum with even trace amounts of water in the system.

[imported_Reatta Fan]

Unfortunately, I don't have a service manual ...

Where are the low pressure and high pressure inlets located in the engine compartment for the A/C system? I need to test the system as the "Service A/C" light flickers on sometimes.