brake rattle

[Jack91]

A metalic rattle is coming from one rear brake. It seems to be coming from the pads.I believe this has been discussed here before. I made no note of that discussion.If anyone could advise,it would be appreciated.

[wheresjim]

The rattle is caused by aftermarket pads. They don't fit as well as the OEMs. Which is bad (hmmmkay?) because I seem to recall a post in the last week where someone said that OEM pads are becoming scarce.

[Consultants_1]

I've asked this same foolish question before, and I guess it was soo lame that no one thought to respond. But what can I say? I'm one of "those", sometimes.<BR>Aren't AC-Delco brake pads OEM? Are they aftermarket? Who supplies the OEM pads?<BR>Thanks folks.

Don't forget to use your parking brake weekly, or when you think of it. That helps to keeps the rears in adjustment. I've found that if you don't do this the distance between the pads and rotors become excessive and contributes to the rattle.

What kind of brake pads will they most likely put on my Reatta if I went to have my brakes done?<BR>Will they be able to get the brake pads I need? What kind are they? <BR>

I had the same prob on my recently aquired 90 coupe. It sounded like a loose hubcap in the rear and drove me nuts. My mechanic just replaced the rear springs and now the rattle is gone.

[Jack91]

For vette028;are you saying that there are springs on the pads that you have replaced. I looked at mine without removing them from the caliper.I could see no springs although I have seen anti-rattle springs or devices on other pads. Thanks in advance for any info.

I'm not very mechanical when it comes to these (or any) cars. All my mechanic told me was he replaced the rear springs. He didnt really specify exactly what they were or their exact location. My receipt for repairs lists: "renew rear brake caliper bushings with new units" if htis tells you anything. All I know is the noise is gone and im happy

Hey Vette: What kind of money did you have to pay out for that fix? I have the rattle too, but was told the fix was maybe around $700.00, which seemed outrageous to me. Thanks!

I just fixed my rattle. I was using aftermarket pads by Raybestos. I replaced them with GM pads. The Raybestos pads were able to move inside the caliper casting in the direction of the longest dimension of the pad. The GM ones were longer by .021 inches and fit better. The rattle is now gone.<P>Alan.<BR>

I think I paid 300.00. I had a few electrical problems with the a/c and fuel door fixed as well.

[Gary Frank]

My 1990 Riv had the same problem, my local mechanic looked at the Dealer said that was normal and could fix it. He said (Rear Brake Pads) that there are small spring clips that are attached to the pads and he refasten them by repinging them and they are quite now. I will look at them the next time I replace the pads, have you looked at your rear pads.<P>Gary Frank

Regarding the rattle in the rear brake had the same problem on my 90. Turned out to be the hardware holding the pad to the brake piston. Hardware Kit 14.95

If the clip which attaches one of the rear brake pads to the piston is loose or broken you are guaranteed a rattle. Replacing it will stop the rattle if that was the only problem. If, however, you have a brake shoe which is loose within the caliper body (as I did) replacing the clip will only effect a temporary cure since the movement of the pad will loosen the grip of this very feeble clip. My experience is that if the pads are loose within the length of the caliper body the only solution is to replace the pad(s) with one which fits.<P>Alan.<P>

[Rick Villeza]

How are your brakes doing now?<BR>There have been all kinds of theories as to why the rear brakes rattle including a theory that I had (replacing the clip which holds the pad to the piston). I was wrong. This was a temporary fix. After about 2 weeks they started rattling again. The most common suggestion seems to be, "use manufacturers pads" which apparently is longer and thereby fits better.<BR>To those who have changed to manufacturers pads, have you had any rattling since? Or was this another temporary fix.<BR>I am about to buy these pads.....$71 rear only.

[Rick Villeza]

Got my OEM pads. Haven't installed them yet. Comparing with micrometer, there is very little difference between OEM and Raybestos. Slight difference in length at the bottom (inner radius). All other dimensions are identical. OEM pads have 1" chamfers on each end.

Hmmm... I really don't believe the the brake pads can take all the blame for the rattle. I have had all of my brake pads replaced with OEM pads at a dealer, and they still rattle. I have spent a large amount of time analyzing this problem, and found that the caliper has a small amount of slack in it, so it can actually hit the brake rotor (metal to metal), causing the rattling sound. But, hey, I have been known to be wrong (not very often though hehe!)<P>Mike/EdgeCrusher

[Jack91]

After post of 7/19 I found that both pistons were frozen in the calipers of the rear calipers.Oddly this did not seem to affect normal braking.I guess the front brakes were working very well.The fix for me was two rear calipers(loaded) from NAPA @ $110 each.No trouble with rattle since. Jack

[Rick Villeza]

Edgecrusher,<BR>I have also spent a lot of time and effort analyzing and trying to fix this problem. This is my experience:<BR>I started by adjusting the parking brake cable. This worked for a couple of days. I then replaced the clips which hold the pads to the piston. This worked for a couple of weeks. Besides these failures I've chamfered the pads, resurfaced the rotors, installed anti-rattle shims, applied brake lube, and even resorted to applying high temp RTV behind the pads. My pistons are free, my brake cables are free and well lubed, my fluid is clean. Still no lasting fix.<BR>To add to the confusion, I do not have this problem with my '90 even though I used the same pads (Raybestos).<BR>We have a lot of talent contributing to this Forum and most testify to having success after using OEM pads, though I cannot determine the reason for this.<BR>What else have you tried?<BR>I'd like to hear from those who have had lasting success with OEM pads or any other fix.

I have a low mileage Reatta that hadn't been driven for a long time. The rear rotors were rusted and a brake shop said they would have to be replaced, along with the pads. After this was done, the rear brakes rattled badly unless I put light pressure on the pedal. I took it back and they installed a NAPA anti rattle kit on each caliper. This stopped the rattle completely for a few weeks and now it is doing it again but not as bad, yet. The pads used were NAPA and the brake guy said that perhaps using OEM pads would solve the problem but he wasn't sure. He too talked about minor length differences between pads and also mentioned some sort of small springs that some cars use to take up this slack. I don't know what I'm going to do now, so I'm watching this thread for ideas.

I fought this problem for three years, trying all of the things that Rick listed, some of them more than once. Eventually, I replaced the Raybestos pads with OEM ones which were .021 inches longer. On this occasion that was the only work done. That was over two years ago and my rattle is completely cured. I occasionally listen for it when traversing a particularly rough or unmade road but it has never reappeared.<P>Alan.<BR>

[grm]

Because you are talking about brakes can one of you tell me what kind of brakes to put on a 88 reatta that dosen't put out the black dust on your wheels? thanks grm

Mine rattles too a bit. I have not got around to doing the rear brakes. I did notice on mine the pads wore a grove in the caliper bracket. I'll probibly get a rebuilt caliper to get this bracket. The rattle clips will take up a slight bit of space. They have some spring tension to hold the pad tight to hold the pad tight. It makes a difference if they are at the top or bottom of the pad. The clip needs to be pushing the pad in the direction of the wheel. Otherwise the force of the brakes would be fighting and weakening the spring clip tension. Also on the inside pad there should be a clip that holds it to the piston. If that clip is gone or does not hold the pad tight it could cause a noise problem.<P>Tom

When I bought my'88 last year, it had that<BR>annoying rattle except when the brakes were<BR>applied. Took it took a reliable local<BR>brake shop, and one of the mechanics isolated the problem to the little stainless spring clips, which had lost their grip. He did a combination of tightening the clip and using a special super sticky stuff to help them stay in place. "Voila!" No more rattles!<BR>The fix has lasted about 9 months so far, and<BR>cost (i forget) about $28 - 38. I sure felt I got my moneysworth!<BR>Tom (proud second owner of a red/tan w/suede)

[Rick Villeza]

I finally got tomy brakes. Inside the box of my new OEM pads was this note: "When installing these new shoes and linings on 1986 and early 1987 vehicles, you should discard the bracket insulator shims that were installed between each end of the shoe bracket. These new design shoes are longer than the original shoes and do not require the bracket insulator shims."<BR>I've replaced my pads. What a relief it is to get rid of that noise. The brakes sound solid. Apparently this issue extends into 1989. Thank you Alan Thomas.