[Bushwack]

My formula when buying a car sight unseen is have a minimum $2,000 on top of whatever price you can afford (or perceived value) for the car. There is always additional work required when you take title (depending on the quality level you want from the car). I'll go out on a limb and say I expect the car to sell between $7,500 - $9,000 if all the stars align. A similar color combo sold for $12,000 with about 30K miles a couple weeks ago.

[melwel49]

OH yeah...do the gentlemen from the Phoenix Reatta Shop check in here? Ya out there gents? Do you by chance know of the Steel Dremz and/or this
particular car? Sure would appreciate your imput, what you might know of this
car, etc.....thanks!

[padgett]

That's a starting place but remember you need to deduct for major issues such as inop a/c or an ABS light on. In each case you must assume the worst & if it was simple it would have been fixed already.

For example a working CD is a rarity and will cost $200 to be refurbished. Figure $800-$1000 for a rotting (but may look good) top. That is a good starting place for ABS (yellow light) or a/c which after 20 years probably has seal issues if not used much. I would consider R-134A to be a plus.

Just some thoughts.

[ewing]

[QUOTE=padgett;730392]

I would want to take a very close look particularly at the underside (just a picture of the bottom of the catalytic converter can tell a lot.QUOTE]

What does the catalytic converter tell you?
ie.If it appears ? it means ?

What else does one look for , in terms of problem areas with the 90 Reatta?

And another question...what do you do when you store these cars? do you disconnect the battery, as usual, and the computor sits and holds its programming?

I am also interested in buying a Reatta, but I know the Buicks of the 30's and 40's better!

[Ronnie]

What else does one look for , in terms of problem areas with the 90 Reatta?

The Teves brake system is always a point of consideration when buying a Reatta. Most problems, with help from this forum can be fixed without spending a lot of money but when the whole unit has to be replaced it can be quite expensive. There is a brake test available that can be used to help pinpoint problems with the Teves system. IF possible take the test before purchasing the car. Brake warning lights on all the time or when you hit the brakes is a red flag that something is wrong. It is normal for the lights to come on and stay on for 30 seconds or less when the car is first started after sitting for a while.

Another Reatta specific item that could make or break a purchase for me would be the windshield. They are hard to find and expensive when you find one. Check the windshield closely for cracks, and bad seals.

The next consideration when purchasing a '90 Reatta is the IPC (Instrument Panel). They fail often and are getting harder to find. Watch for an ERROR 00 message or parts of the display not showing information as it should. Sometimes it can be fixed by unplugging the IPC and cleaning the contacts but you should deduct from the purchase price as if it was DOA.

If the above items are good and the body and interior are in good shape and the undercarriage is not rusted, you should check the drive train parts the way you would any other Buick with a 3.8 V6. Most of the parts are interchangeable.

[ewing]

Thanks Ronnie.

I have an 88 Olds with the 3800 engine and another Pontiac driver with a 3800 and I love these engines.

I'll lbe sure to take a closer look at the brakes and dash.

[padgett]

My experience is that I can take one look at the catalytic converter and get a good feeling for the amount of road salt the car has seen. The little oval metal body seals are something else to check but for me the CC will show signs of deterioration before other components will, perhaps because it get to hot or maybe just is cheap metal.

An original will not have the capped bypass tube and the screen will be in place on the bottom. After 20 years the screen may be discolored but should be there.

[ewing]

ok, good stuff, thanks!