Drum to Disks and BonDo removal

I was wondering how much altering would be needed to change the front drum brakes on my '65 Special to disks? Also how do you properly and completely remove BonDo?

Since you're on this topic, I might as well ask how hard it is to go from manual to power brakes on a '65 Special with a 300 V8. My leg is getting strong but tired.

[John Chapman]

'65 and Bret:<P>MartinSR and others have some great guidance on these subjects, but here's what I've found in researching upgrades on my '65:<P>Bondo: <BR>Bead blast to remove bondo and clean the metal. I guess an extreme remedy would be sand blast or acid dip. Grind and sand will work, but not nearly so well.<P>Brakes: <BR>This one I've given a lot of thought, as I also have a non-power car. As I see it, there are three routes, junkyard parts, aftermarket kits and professional rebuild/upgrade.<P>When shopping and planning, keep in mind that the '65-67 (and maybe '68) stock wheels will not fit disc equipped cars due to caliper interference. You'll need to switch to later year wheels (Rallyes, too). Some conversions will not work with 14 inch wheels period. This can add some bucks to your investment....<P>See additional info at: <BR> <A HREF="http://www.buickperformance.com/discbrak.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.buickperformance.com/discbrak.htm</A> <BR> <A HREF="http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/Ultimate.cgi" TARGET=_blank>http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/Ultimate.cgi</A> <P>Once on the site, go to the bottom and select "Disc Brake Conversions" in the Archives menu. (I know, it's a Chevelle site, but they have a super fund of knowlege on many items that are Buick friendly.)<P><B>Junkyarding:</B><BR>All disk/booster components can be bolted on. If I recall correctly, 68 - 72 A body disks and spindles will work as is, dual system booster likewise. Don't forget to get the proportioning valve while you're at it.<BR>Bonus: It's relatively cheap to get started.<BR>Bummer: Time, rebuild and avialability. Depending on your situation. It's time consuming to locate parts (more difficult by the day as the crusher gobbles up cars in SoCal), fitting them, have them overhauled and install them. In all if I count my free time, it's not worth the headaches (and knuckle aches) to me. I've not counted the repeat trips for wrong items and unrepairable parts.<P>Cost: Not counting my time, I figured I'd spend about $575-650 for everything.<P><B>Kits:</B><BR>Bonus: All the parts, clean, new/rebuilt, guaranteed.<BR>Bummer: Kit quality seems to vary. Most reports say they are great. Some report that there were quality and fit problems, but the vendors stood behind the products.<BR>Vendors are (and there are more):<BR>PSC - <A HREF="http://www.graphics2.net/psc/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.graphics2.net/psc/</A> <BR>StainlessSteel - <A HREF="http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/</A> <BR>MasterPower - <A HREF="http://www.mpbrakes.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.mpbrakes.com/</A> <P>Cost: Kits are $800 - 900 for a basic conversion. You provide labor.<P><B>Professional Rebuild/Upgrade:</B><BR>I've found two in San Diego that do this for muscle cars. The one that seems to do it best is a NAPA facility.<BR>Bonus(es): You don't get dirty at all. Parts are all new/remanufactured, and commercial off the shelf(COTS) items with NAPA and come with a NAPA warranty. Lifetime guarantee is extra. Professional installation (which I find comforting when contemplating stopping a 4,000 pound Buick that I've done the brake work on...)<BR>Bummer(s): Pricy. You can't say 'I DID THAT!'<P>Cost: $1200-1300 includes parts (discs, spindles, hoses, lines, dual master cylinder, power booster, prop valve, etc.) For a small additional charge, they were willing to completely replace the original hard and flex lines to the rear wheels. <P>At present, this is my choice for the conversion. Of course, I could be downsized/rightsized/overhead reduced, which would invert my time vs. money equation, but this is where I am now.<P>Hope this perspective helps.<BR>Good luck!<BR>John<P>------------------<BR>John Chapman<BR>BCA 35894<BR> jmchapman@aol.com <BR><p>[This message has been edited by John Chapman (edited 07-14-2000).]

I have to put my two cents worth in, bead or sandblasting can distroy sheet metal and should be used with GREAT CAUTION. Depending on what part or even what part of a part you are stripping you can sandblast without fear,the problem is where. You can sandblast even on a hood, BUT ONLY AT THE VERY EDGE where it is not going to heat up the sheet metal. I suggest a chemical stripper like Jasco or Martin-Senour 6802 available at NAPA stores. A "hog" or "killer" slang for an eight inch orbital sander is one of the best ways to strip bondo (again a slang, plastic body filler would be correct). Using 36 grit high quality paper, man will that strip fast! It works well because it doesn't create much heat, like a grinder will. Do not use a grinder without MUCH experiance. You can do as much damage as a sand blaster(or more). <P>------------------<BR>buickfam@aol.com<BR>Life long Buick Fan.<BR>1965 Skylark H/T<BR>1965 Gran Sport Convertible<BR>1948 Chevy Pickup with 401 Buick.