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		<title>AACA Forums - Buick - Pre War</title>
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			<title>1930 running board mouldings</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1930-running-board-mouldings-353731.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 02:57:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Has anyone installed running board board mouldings recently? I just purchased a set of reproduction mouldings from l&l auto trim, but don't...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Has anyone installed running board board mouldings recently? I just purchased a set of reproduction mouldings from l&amp;l auto trim, but don't understand how to install them. There is 3 pieces the full length of the running board, I only expected 2. Does anyone know how to intall these?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>buckfarmer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1930-running-board-mouldings-353731.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1937 1938 trunk hinge</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1937-1938-trunk-hinge-353718.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 23:40:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was talking to a guy the other day and he said there is a bushing that goes with the bolt for the trunk hinge.  Does anyone have a drawing showing...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I was talking to a guy the other day and he said there is a bushing that goes with the bolt for the trunk hinge.  Does anyone have a drawing showing how the hinge goes together?  Or could you post a picture of how your hinge goes together?  I have a trunk back '37 Specialty four door, the type with the external hinge.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Bob<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>bobj49f2</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1937-1938-trunk-hinge-353718.html</guid>
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			<title>BCA PreWar Division Dinner Meeting July 18th</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/bca-prewar-division-dinner-meeting-july-353706.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 20:21:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I encourage all BCA PWD members attending the BCA National Meet to join us for the PreWar Division dinner meeting.   
 
We will leave the host hotel...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I encourage all BCA PWD members attending the BCA National Meet to join us for the PreWar Division dinner meeting.  <br />
<br />
We will leave the host hotel at 6 PM Thursday evening July 18<sup>th</sup> for a short drive to Carmelas for our annual meeting followed by dinner and group discussions. Brian Heil will be there to review the AfterTour itinerary, answer questions and provide hand-outs and instructions on where to meet on Sunday morning to start the tour.   </SPAN></SPAN><br />
<br />
As always, members will pay for their own meals. Special menu items offered for our group that evening will be listed in the next issue of the PWD Newsletter.<br />
    <br />
  </SPAN></SPAN><a href="http://www.macrisbakery.com/carmelas/" target="_blank">http://www.macrisbakery.com/carmelas/</SPAN></a></SPAN><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>Mark Shaw</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/bca-prewar-division-dinner-meeting-july-353706.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[headlight switch '36 Buick 60]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/headlight-switch-36-buick-60-a-353686.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 13:55:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My headlight switch is shorted out and I'm wondering if it can be repaired or can an after market switch be used in place of it.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->My headlight switch is shorted out and I'm wondering if it can be repaired or can an after market switch be used in place of it.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>copperjohn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/headlight-switch-36-buick-60-a-353686.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>1928 Standard 6 getting back together</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1928-standard-6-getting-back-together-353659.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 21:57:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, we are making progress with my 1928 Std 6  Attachment 198655 (http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f165/198655-1928-standard-6-getting-back-together-dscf3799bbb.jpg) Click for latest update...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi, we are making progress with my 1928 Std 6  <a href="http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f165/198655d1371506097-1928-standard-6-getting-back-together-dscf3799bbb.jpg" id="attachment198655" rel="Lightbox_0" ><img src="http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f165/198655d1371506097t-1928-standard-6-getting-back-together-dscf3799bbb.jpg" border="0" alt="Click image for larger version.&nbsp;

Name:	DSCF3799bbb.jpg&nbsp;
Views:	7&nbsp;
Size:	144.7 KB&nbsp;
ID:	198655" class="thumbnail" style="float:CONFIG" /></a> Click for latest update please-                <a href="http://1928buick.wordpress.com/00-getting-back-together/" target="_blank">00 – Getting back together | 1928buick</a><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>humber349</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1928-standard-6-getting-back-together-353659.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>28 marvel carb</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/28-marvel-carb-353652.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:35:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Would like the dimensions of the pre heat tube that fits above the carb in the intake manifold.  This is on a master engine.  Didn't find one on...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Would like the dimensions of the pre heat tube that fits above the carb in the intake manifold.  This is on a master engine.  Didn't find one on Bob's site.  Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>bigvic</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/28-marvel-carb-353652.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Are engine replacement gaskets for 1909 available or are DIY?</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/engine-replacement-gaskets-1909-available-diy-353569.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:08:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Folks, 
 
Are gaskets for the 09 available from a "Best Gaskets" type company or are they a DIY project?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Folks,<br />
<br />
Are gaskets for the 09 available from a "Best Gaskets" type company or are they a DIY project?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>GeraldT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/engine-replacement-gaskets-1909-available-diy-353569.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sources for Parts - 1909 Buick 10 Tourer</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/sources-parts-1909-buick-10-tourer-353568.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 05:07:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello all, 
 
Could folks recommend good sources for Pre-War Buick parts, new and used?   
 
For example, does someone make the upgrade pistons...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello all,<br />
<br />
Could folks recommend good sources for Pre-War Buick parts, new and used?  <br />
<br />
For example, does someone make the upgrade pistons (aluminum) for engine rebuilds?<br />
<br />
Thank you!!<br />
<br />
GeraldT<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>GeraldT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/sources-parts-1909-buick-10-tourer-353568.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1936 Buick Special - Where is your generator cutout relay mounted?</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1936-buick-special-where-your-generator-353502.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 23:03:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been studying the new wiring harness I had made and the generator cutout relay wiring is different in the new harness.  In both harnesses there...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've been studying the new wiring harness I had made and the generator cutout relay wiring is different in the new harness.  In both harnesses there are two wires that go to the generator but in the new harness these wires route back to the amp meter and the ground leg of the headlight switch while in my original harness the two wires go to a firewall mounted generator cutout relay and wires from the relay go on to the amp meter and ground.<br />
<br />
I have to add that my car is a 1936 McLaughlin Buick so I suspect that perhaps the Canadians used the external firewall mounted generator cutout relay while the US version must have the regulator built into or on top of the generator.  Can anybody confirm where their relay is?<br />
<br />
In the meantime, I'm still trying to figure out how to correct the issue.  Unfortunately I've already had to modify the new harness to swap the instrument light sockets so sending it back for rework probably isn't going to happen.  I may end up unwinding the cloth to add and reroute wires appropriately but I haven't quite worked up the courage to start hacking into my brand new expensive harness :(<br />
<br />
Jeff<br />
<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>Jeff_Miller</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1936-buick-special-where-your-generator-353502.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Radiator</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/radiator-353484.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 17:47:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Do the 1941 Buick Special and the Buick Super take the same radiator</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Do the 1941 Buick Special and the Buick Super take the same radiator<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>terrimc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/radiator-353484.html</guid>
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			<title>1925 Standard Still Foaming</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1925-standard-still-foaming-353432.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 22:20:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Sorry to say my 1925 will not be able to attend our Mason Dixon Chapter car show this Saturday at Freysinger Buick in Mechanicsburg Pa.  After 2...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><font size="5">Sorry to say my 1925 will not be able to attend our Mason Dixon Chapter car show this Saturday at Freysinger Buick in Mechanicsburg Pa.  After 2 weeks of intensive prep. Including redoing oil pan with new gaskets and end seals, rebuilding oil pump, repairing the oil distribution tube solder joint. (Much blue silicone sealer everywhere!) Plastigaged the rod bearings and adjusted. Serviced the rear axle, adjusted brakes, greased etc. and new fan belt. I felt sure she was ready to travel the 40 miles. Last evening we left about 6 PM to go to Freysingers (to store in their drive-thru till saturday when we would also drive up our 1937-41) with with my wife Joanie following. We got about 2 miles from home when white foam spewed from the left side hood louvers. (Seemed as though I had solved this problem last fall and has not done this on longer drives this spiring). Temp started going up so we headed back home.  Last year I had gone thru the cooling system repeatedly with this same outcome untill I found that the intake manifold was loose. Once all was retorqued &amp; blocked off heat riser ports, all seemed to run much cooler. This spring after a 10 mile run or so on a 70 deg day temp hardly went above warm engine on the Motometer. When engine was stopped overflow may belch about a cup of water. I had seen where others had added a small overflow tank to even take care of this. Which I did and this is the only thing added different from earlier drives.  I guess "Beaulah" just refuses to go past the Boro limits. So we will only drive the 37 up the morning of the show.                Larry</font><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>dibarlaw</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1925-standard-still-foaming-353432.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>1930 gas guage</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1930-gas-guage-353414.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 14:43:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Trying to restore the gas gauge in my roadster. The glass element is plugged with the old indicator liquid. I have tried several solvents and have...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Trying to restore the gas gauge in my roadster. The glass element is plugged with the old indicator liquid. I have tried several solvents and have not been able to unplug it. I'm sure the small copper line from the glass to the connector on the back is also plugged.  Does anyone have one of these or know where to get one or have a suggestion on how to unplug mine?<br />
<br />
Neil<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>buckfarmer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1930-gas-guage-353414.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Very much OT.</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/very-much-ot-353392.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 06:40:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys. 
If you're having trouble sleeping or burning the midnight oil in the garage on the Buick, and you have the computer nearby, why not have a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey guys.<br />
If you're having trouble sleeping or burning the midnight oil in the garage on the Buick, and you have the computer nearby, why not have a listen to my radio show? I host the drive show on a music station here in Christchurch, New Zealand, called The Breeze, and we play a mix of newer and older stuff, from Elvis to Michael Buble, to Elton John, Lady Antebellum, The Eagles, The Temptations, etc. And on our Sunday night, we have a country show from 7pm -12mn. I'm on weekdays from 2-7pm, and every 2nd Saturday from 10am-2pm. Been in radio for over 20 years now. Unlike Danny, who does something actually useful for a living. You're all in different time zones, so I don't know what our times are to yours, but as I type this and post, it will be about 6:40pm our time. <br />
 If you open the link, you can see where it says Listen Live. Click on that, and enjoy!<br />
<a href="http://www.thebreeze.co.nz/Regions/Christchurch/Home/tabid/78/Default.aspx" target="_blank">Home - Christchurch - Regions - The Breeze</a><br />
Yes, we sound funny, and yes, we talk fast!<br />
Cheers<br />
Grant<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>Grant Magrath</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/very-much-ot-353392.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1930 Buick - Door jamb light switch</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1930-buick-door-jamb-light-switch-353384.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 02:33:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am looking for a door jamb switch for the dome (opera) light of my 1930 Buick model 68.  I was able to find one for a Chevy from 40 to 56 but...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am looking for a door jamb switch for the dome (opera) light of my 1930 Buick model 68.  I was able to find one for a Chevy from 40 to 56 but unfortunately it uses a single-pole and assumes that power runs to the dome light at all times.  In the Chevy switch the dome light comes on by first opening the door which then causes the plunger in the switch to be grounded to the body of the car, thus completing the circuit.  From studying the wiring diagram for 1930 it appears that Buick is using a two-pole switch which breaks the hot lead to the dome light.  When the plunger moves out as the door is opened it appears that the circuit is completed, passing current to the dome light.  If someone knows this to be incorrect for the Buick, please let me know.  In any case my car is missing the door jamb switch and if anyone has a spare one they would be willing to part with I would appreciate it.  If no one has a spare, can anyone suggest how to solve this dilemma?  Are there any 6-volt door jamb switches that I can use as a substitute?<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
Pictures of my missing door jamb switch (not sure exactly what it looks like) and passenger side opera light:<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>michaelod</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1930-buick-door-jamb-light-switch-353384.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>38 Century - idle speed</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/38-century-idle-speed-353381.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 01:38:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all,  the service manual for my car gives an idle speed of 7-8 mph.  Does this mean that when in gear and idling, the car should move along at...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi all,  the service manual for my car gives an idle speed of 7-8 mph.  Does this mean that when in gear and idling, the car should move along at that speed?  If that's what it means, is that in high gear or first gear? ..........  Thanks, RonJ<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>RonJar</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/38-century-idle-speed-353381.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Tailpipe configuration on '22 Coupe 4 cyl.]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/tailpipe-configuration-22-coupe-4-cyl-353285.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 23:27:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am having a local exhaust shop make up a tailpipe for my '22 Buick 2 door Coupe 4 cylinder. I believe the original tailpipe ended with a down turn...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am having a local exhaust shop make up a tailpipe for my '22 Buick 2 door Coupe 4 cylinder. I believe the original tailpipe ended with a down turn a little bit before the rear axle. Can anyone confirm this theory or provide a picture of what the original tailpipe would have looked like? I would like to keep with the originality of what the car was from the factory.<br />
<br />
Thanks for any advice<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>22Coupe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/tailpipe-configuration-22-coupe-4-cyl-353285.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Early Buick running boards - What year?</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/early-buick-running-boards-what-year-353261.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 17:59:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Someone has listed on eBay what appear to be a pair of early Buick running boards.  Anyone have any idea what year these are for? 
 
 
 
Vintage...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Someone has listed on eBay what appear to be a pair of early Buick running boards.  Anyone have any idea what year these are for?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Buick-Running-Boards-Aluminum-w-Buick-Embossed-Teens-Twenties-Help-/310681346993?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;hash=item48560d23b1&amp;vxp=mtr" target="_blank">Vintage Buick Running Boards Aluminum w Buick Embossed Teens Twenties Help | eBay</a><br />
<br />
Thanks,<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>michaelod</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/early-buick-running-boards-what-year-353261.html</guid>
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			<title>27 Buick headlight rim screws</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/27-buick-headlight-rim-screws-353245.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:33:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm finally rewiring my 27 Buick woodie. I took the headlights apart 3 years ago and lost the screws that hood the headlight rim onto body. The large...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm finally rewiring my 27 Buick woodie. I took the headlights apart 3 years ago and lost the screws that hood the headlight rim onto body. The large screw at bottom. Where Can I find some? Seems to be a srange thread. Thanks for any Help<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>Old26Buick</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>1940 series 80 alignment</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1940-series-80-alignment-353241.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 12:12:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hope someone can help on an alignment question. In looking at the specs for the caster in my Motors Manual it calls for a setting of -7/8 degrees....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hope someone can help on an alignment question. In looking at the specs for the caster in my Motors Manual it calls for a setting of -7/8 degrees.<br />
this setting was for series 80 +90 series only, every other series was + 3/8ths. 39 model cars shared the -7/8 ths so did they change king pin arrangement and where it was measured to come up with a negative degree? It just does not make sense to me to have a negative caster on rear wheel drive car. The car drives fine until above 50mph when if you hit a bump or uneven road the front end starts a bad shimmy. any help is appreciated.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>CHAD THOMAS</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1940-series-80-alignment-353241.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>1936 Bumper straightening</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1936-bumper-straightening-353225.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 04:30:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The front bumper for my 1936 Special has hit something in its past life and it now has a slight bend in it.  Has anyone tried straightening bumpers. ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->The front bumper for my 1936 Special has hit something in its past life and it now has a slight bend in it.  Has anyone tried straightening bumpers.  It looks like I could give it a gentle push with my hydraulic press to put it back into shape.  My fear is that it will break instead of bend.  Any thoughts?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>groselle</dc:creator>
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			<title>Buick `41 running hot.</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/buick-41-running-hot-353147.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 09:03:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, my `41 46S with dual carbs is still running hot after a Hyway drive from about 50 mls at 55 mph. This at a outside temp from 71 degrees, water...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi, my `41 46S with dual carbs is still running hot after a Hyway drive from about 50 mls at 55 mph. This at a outside temp from 71 degrees, water temp rises to 215 degrees. It only happens at hyway use. I think I have everything done to make it alright. A new block in the radiator, rebuild the waterpump, cleaned the cylinder head and engine block, adjust the ignition, installed a colder thermostat, and make closer the valve under the thermostat to have a less mixture from hot and cold water. Also I`ve checked the temp gauge and installed a electric fan in front of the radiator. I put also 2 new edelbrock 94 carbs on the car and make them simultaneously, it runs great and save`s fuel. Last week I put the car on the dyno for fine tuning and it has 94 Hp on the rear wheel, not bad I think. Has anyone a suggestion for my temp problem?  Thanks, Bert (Netherlands)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>falco</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/buick-41-running-hot-353147.html</guid>
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			<title>1927 Buick Headlight Bulb.</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1927-buick-headlight-bulb-353113.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 21:42:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm rewiring the headlights on my 27 Buick woodie. The shop manual calls for 21 c. p. on both filaments. The bulbs in car are Mazda 1000  32 x 32...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm rewiring the headlights on my 27 Buick woodie. The shop manual calls for 21 c. p. on both filaments. The bulbs in car are Mazda 1000  32 x 32 c.p. 6-8volt.<br />
There doesn't seem to be any difference on high or low beam. Should I use the 32 C. P. or get some 21 C. P. // Thanks for any help.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>Old26Buick</dc:creator>
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			<title>1924 Buick Steering Wheel lever controls</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1924-buick-steering-wheel-lever-controls-353054.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 20:24:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My lever controls for the throttle and spark advance are broken and cracked. Does anyone have these parts? Can they be repaired?    We have pictures...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->My lever controls for the throttle and spark advance are broken and cracked. Does anyone have these parts? Can they be repaired?    We have pictures to send if we have your email.<br />
 Can't figure out how to post them here.<br />
Thanks,<br />
Carla<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>Carla Larsen</dc:creator>
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			<title>28 buick master</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/28-buick-master-353008.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 22:50:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>looking for in and ex valves for my 28-47  help pls</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->looking for in and ex valves for my 28-47  help pls<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>frank2147</dc:creator>
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			<title>1932 in car oil pan removal</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1932-car-oil-pan-removal-352999.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 20:36:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Greetings, 
 
Planning on removing the oil pan and pump for clean out on a 32 56 series sedan.  I would like to attempt this while it is in the car. ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Greetings,<br />
<br />
Planning on removing the oil pan and pump for clean out on a 32 56 series sedan.  I would like to attempt this while it is in the car.  Any cautions or challenges in getting this done?  Hoping some one can shed some light on how much trouble I am in for?  Working without a service manual again.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
Greg<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>8014haar</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1932-car-oil-pan-removal-352999.html</guid>
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			<title>38 Century rad removal</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/38-century-rad-removal-352991.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 18:54:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>A couple of weeks ago, I posted about using an electric fan, it was strongly suggested I have the rad checked/recored which I have decided to do. 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->A couple of weeks ago, I posted about using an electric fan, it was strongly suggested I have the rad checked/recored which I have decided to do.<br />
<br />
The manual says first, remove the water pump and fan.  Are they kidding? ...... :(<br />
<br />
Any tips on the best (easiest) way of removing the radiator from my 38 Century?  All tips greatly appreciated!!!<br />
<br />
RonJ<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>RonJar</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>!938 and 1939 Buick radiator, same size?</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/938-1939-buick-radiator-same-size-352967.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 14:03:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know if the '38 and '39 Buick radiators are the same dimensions. 
I'd like to buy a Walker radiator shroud and they are only made for...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Does anyone know if the '38 and '39 Buick radiators are the same dimensions.<br />
I'd like to buy a Walker radiator shroud and they are only made for '38s.<br />
Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>airbrushguy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/938-1939-buick-radiator-same-size-352967.html</guid>
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			<title>1929 buick speedometer adapter</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1929-buick-speedometer-adapter-352918.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 22:37:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello .I am having difficulty in getting my new speedometer cable adapter to work. I have a Buick 29-41 .I recently purchased a good used speedometer...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello .I am having difficulty in getting my new speedometer cable adapter to work. I have a Buick 29-41 .I recently purchased a good used speedometer cable assembly. On this cable assembly ,it still had the die cast adapter pn 848188.It has swollen and is too large to go into my transmission.so I then  purchased from CA ,a new brass adapter .It fits beautifully into my transmission.It has cast into it pn 848188 as well.The problem is, the bore that the outer cable housing goes into, on the diecast part is approximately 2.2 inches deep. The bore depth on the brass part is approximately .9 inches deep. I know that it can be drilled or bored to match the depth of the diecast part,but Id rather not.Has anyone else encountered this problem? I hope that Im using the correct parts.I have no original part number resources.Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>raydurr</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1929-buick-speedometer-adapter-352918.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>misfire under load on 1930 large series</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/misfire-under-load-1930-large-series-352861.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 03:00:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Got the 1930 model 64 out for the first time yesterday, since the restoration began. Started out with a misfire when climbing hills. However after a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Got the 1930 model 64 out for the first time yesterday, since the restoration began. Started out with a misfire when climbing hills. However after a little adjustment of the air screw the engine ran great under all conditions. Then I ran it out of gas and now the misfire has returned and no amount of adjusting timing or airscrew will seem to help. The car runs great at idle and revs nicely. But under a load it misfires like it might be starved of gas? Any thoughts?<br />
<br />
Neil<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>buckfarmer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f165/misfire-under-load-1930-large-series-352861.html</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Performance Issues on my '41]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f165/performance-issues-my-41-a-352813.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 15:53:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys, 
 
    So, I've been trying to solve a long standing performance issue on my '41. As many of you may know, she's an SSE with the stock 248...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey guys,<br />
<br />
    So, I've been trying to solve a long standing performance issue on my '41. As many of you may know, she's an SSE with the stock 248 and dual carbs. She sat off and on from 10-12 as I rebuilt the brakes and chased an annoying electrical problem that ended in the starter solenoid relay being bad. Up to the summer of '11 during test drives, I had no performance problems from her.<br />
<br />
    Last summer, I had the starter completely gone through and a new solenoid relay put on her. I started trying to drive her again and at certain angles of throttle, she would stall out. The stalls take place around the threshold where you need to shift into 2nd and third (around 10-15 mph/30-35 mph respectively. <br />
<br />
<br />
    First step was to check and correct the timing. I used a vaccuum gague and a battery powered induction timing light. I had another gentleman "check my homework" we found TDC and set the time from there. Supposedly he's a more experienced mechanic than I and he used the timing light and mark on the flywheel after I had set it with a vacuum gague. I don't completely trust his judgement as he works primarily on imports and newer cars. I am going to go back and recheck the timing regardless.<br />
<br />
<br />
After this last summer, I replaced: Coil, points (set points correctly,) plugs, condensor, dizzy cap, and plug wires. Both carbs are now rebuilt and she's sporting a brand new fuel pump. From her backfiring slightly at idle, I'm willing to bet I've fixed a lot of stuff without actually solving my problem which leaves: 1. The timing is still not correct, 2. the vacuum advance is not working or there is a problem with the dizzy (although I checked the plates for movement by hand last summer  and they seemed ok,) or 3. I have a stuck/worn/burnt valve or pushrod. Have I missed anything else?<br />
<br />
I'm kind of eager to rule out the fact that I have valve troubles before I go about fixing more stuff, like the dizzy or vac advance that may not need it. So, do I just pull the valve cover/side cover and let it run for a little bit while obersving for anything irregular. Mike in CO, I read your recent post on the pushrods and pulling the side cover and it really got me thinking. Anyway, how would you reccomend going about checking the valves. I'd like to get some closure as to whether or not a valve job is in my future. Thanks for allowing me to write books on my automotive problems on here and for your help guys!<br />
<br />
(If it wins me any brownie points, I just renewed my BCA membership :)<br />
<br />
Cheers!<br />
<br />
Tim<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f165/">Buick - Pre War</category>
			<dc:creator>Tim Romans</dc:creator>
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