AACA Forums - Buick - Post War http://forums.aaca.org/ en Wed, 22 May 2013 10:19:20 GMT vBulletin 60 http://forums.aaca.org/images/misc/rss.png AACA Forums - Buick - Post War http://forums.aaca.org/ Seat Belts for 1953 Super http://forums.aaca.org/f162/seat-belts-1953-super-351620.html Tue, 21 May 2013 02:18:33 GMT I've been looking around at all the different places that offer retrofit seat belts and would like ya'll's advice on what to get. Since the '53 is pillar-less it seems the option of a 3 point system will not work so I'll be getting the 2 point lap style. My main question is: Are retractable type lap belts safer than the non-retractable type or is it just for convenience to "move around - fiddlin' with the radio, etc." while driving? The price difference is pretty big between the two types and I'm not one to save a buck on safety, but if there really isn't a difference safety wise, my wallet sure would like the less expensive option. Any thoughts? ]]> Buick - Post War WillBilly53 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/seat-belts-1953-super-351620.html Need vacuum wiper motor rebuild...help? http://forums.aaca.org/f162/need-vacuum-wiper-motor-rebuild-help-351592.html Mon, 20 May 2013 19:02:18 GMT Anybody know of a vacuum wiper motor rebuilder? Need to get this taken care of before South Bend! Anybody know of a vacuum wiper motor rebuilder? Need to get this taken care of before South Bend! ]]> Buick - Post War lancemb http://forums.aaca.org/f162/need-vacuum-wiper-motor-rebuild-help-351592.html Clutch change out 1954 Buick Super 3-speed manual gear box http://forums.aaca.org/f162/clutch-change-out-1954-buick-super-351473.html Sat, 18 May 2013 18:44:31 GMT Dear all, greetings from The Netherlands. I post this query on behalf of a friend of mine who owns a 1954 Buick Super with a 3-speed manual... Dear all,

greetings from The Netherlands.

I post this query on behalf of a friend of mine who owns a 1954 Buick Super with a 3-speed manual gearbox.

The clutch starts to slip so it is probably time for a change out of the friction plate etc.

Can anyone please tell me what is all involved to accomplish that??

Do we need to remove the gearbox or has it a telescopic spline shaft so you can just pick it out??

If it does require the gearbox to be removed, what is the correct order?

We are somewhat puzzled since te drive shaft is in a 'tunnel' which runs thru the chassis x-members.

If we have to remove all that it looks like it is quite an undertaking.

Any 'tips & tricks' are highly appeciated.

Kind regards,

Piet ]]> Buick - Post War PButros http://forums.aaca.org/f162/clutch-change-out-1954-buick-super-351473.html <![CDATA[12V Generator in '55 Buick Special - added radio/SiriusXM]]> http://forums.aaca.org/f162/12v-generator-55-buick-special-added-351409.html Fri, 17 May 2013 20:22:57 GMT Hi guys,

I've had this Buick for about a year now. Drove it last summer without issues after spending a virtual fortune at the garage for needed repairs 'n such. (Well worth the spend though!)

Near the end of the summer last year I had a radio installed, with a SiriusXM Sat. Again, no issues. There was no wiring for a radio originally, so Mr. Dude who installed the system and speakers had to wire it up from scratch.

Here's where it gets a little strange;

I've been driving Buick this year nearly every weekend without any issues at all. (aside from a gas gauge not working, and a temp gauge not working, which are being replaced this weekend).

Everything works, and works very well. HOWEVER.... the wife noticed last weekend that when we go over 30miles (speed) the radio stops working, but when I slow down, radio comes back on.

Baffled, I tried something - pulled the headlight switch ON so my lights were on and the problem with loss of power to to the radio was gone.

I'm kind of freaking out here because this obviously may cause chuckles to some, but to me all I see are dollar signs and a new generator or a rebuilding of this one.

Can I possibly be pulling too much voltage from the generator just by adding a radio? No amp... just a brand new Sony radio with removable plate, USB and AUX inputs, and the 2 6x9 speakers in little boxes and nothing else. Not even a cigarette lighter.

Is my generator dying?

Should I upgrade to an alternator?

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Todd ]]> Buick - Post War BuddyBuick http://forums.aaca.org/f162/12v-generator-55-buick-special-added-351409.html Vertical Movement in Steering Column http://forums.aaca.org/f162/vertical-movement-steering-column-351343.html Fri, 17 May 2013 00:19:28 GMT Hi all,

I'm getting ready to do a steering box adjustment, since it's still very loose and difficult to drive. I rebuilt the linkages (some of the ball cups were a bit worn) and threw in new tie rods from Kanter. I then adjusted the locknut on the box to get some of the play out. Unfortunately, it still needs work.

I plan on replacing the rear panhard bar bushings and inspecting the rag joint.

Something that came to my attention was movement in the steering column when turning the wheel, especially with the car turned off. I remember reading that a specific adjustment is required when this play is present.

I was hoping to hear some opinions.

Thanks ]]> Buick - Post War 1956century http://forums.aaca.org/f162/vertical-movement-steering-column-351343.html Low Tech Tips: Quick and easy way to replace heater hoses http://forums.aaca.org/f162/low-tech-tips-quick-easy-way-351336.html Thu, 16 May 2013 23:02:23 GMT http://www.buickrestorer.com/heaterhose/heaterhose.htm (http://www.buickrestorer.com/heaterhose/heaterhose.htm) I added another Low Tech Tip to my...


http://www.buickrestorer.com/heaterhose/heaterhose.htm

I added another Low Tech Tip to my website.
Three hours or less even if you are an amateur.:D
Willie ]]> Buick - Post War old-tank http://forums.aaca.org/f162/low-tech-tips-quick-easy-way-351336.html Looking for good mechanic in Huntersville (Charlotte), NC area http://forums.aaca.org/f162/looking-good-mechanic-huntersville-charlotte-nc-351080.html Mon, 13 May 2013 14:33:54 GMT Ok so everybody's got "a guy", body "guy", transmission "guy", general repair "guy".

I have a few things going on (leaky seals, transmission leaks, various odds and ends) that I just don't have the time or energy to fix.

I need a guy that is close to the Huntersville, NC area. Does anyone have a recommendation or a lead of someone? Preferably someone familiar with the 50's vehicles? ]]> Buick - Post War 52_Special http://forums.aaca.org/f162/looking-good-mechanic-huntersville-charlotte-nc-351080.html 1955 Nailhed 264 timing chain http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1955-nailhed-264-timing-chain-351053.html Mon, 13 May 2013 03:19:04 GMT Hello, I'm rebuilding my motor and new timing chain that came with the car has so much slack it's not even funny. {youtube video on the subject by another member here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_GVz0EhuyY mine's worse . Talked to 'oldtank' Willie and he suggested NOS TRW chain part No. TC488 {direct application} or 491 {proven application by Willie}. Anyone out there has one by any chance OR good original? Thank you as always. Roman ]]> Buick - Post War Roadster911 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1955-nailhed-264-timing-chain-351053.html 1952 heater core http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1952-heater-core-350981.html Sun, 12 May 2013 01:24:40 GMT Just noticed that mine is missing. Does anybody know if a '52 Roadmaster heater core would fit a Super of the same year? Haven't got an interchange manual yet. Thanks much. ]]> Buick - Post War retirednow http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1952-heater-core-350981.html Autolite 75 plug gap----264ci nailhead http://forums.aaca.org/f162/autolite-75-plug-gap-264ci-nailhead-350964.html Sun, 12 May 2013 00:28:40 GMT Orginally the plugs for this engine had a arc in the tip and the service manual recommended a round gauge. As far as I know now, these plugs are no... Orginally the plugs for this engine had a arc in the tip and the service manual recommended a round gauge. As far as I know now, these plugs are no longer made. I just purchased Autolite 75. What would the gap be since there's no arc in the tip? ]]> Buick - Post War btate http://forums.aaca.org/f162/autolite-75-plug-gap-264ci-nailhead-350964.html 1953 Buick Ignition Switch/Cylinder Removal http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1953-buick-ignition-switch-cylinder-removal-350897.html Sat, 11 May 2013 20:50:17 GMT Hello Buick Friends!

I'm in the process of disassembling everything from my dash and have gotten stumped at the ignition. There's an Off, On, and Lock position with a small hole on the right side of the lock mechanism. By reading forum threads for other years it seems I need to insert a pin into the hole and turn the cylinder with the key inside to remove the switch. I've tried a few different ways, but to no avail. Has anyone ever removed one from a 1953 Special? I have always had great success getting answers on the club forum and look forward to learning the procedure to solve this mystery. Thanks in advance!

Pat ]]> Buick - Post War Pat0366 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1953-buick-ignition-switch-cylinder-removal-350897.html What is your Method to do compression test? http://forums.aaca.org/f162/what-your-method-do-compression-test-350851.html Fri, 10 May 2013 22:58:26 GMT Again I am not a true mechanic and I rely on you guys in the forum plus doing a lot of goggle. I will list what I think is the proper method of... Again I am not a true mechanic and I rely on you guys in the forum plus doing a lot of goggle. I will list what I think is the proper method of compression testing but I stand to be corrected. 1st --remove all plugs, 2nd connect a charger to battery to keep starter rpm's consistence, throttle valve wide open and since my 55' buick starter is in the gas pedal and to start must be pushed wide open, that opens the throttle. 3rd screw compression line in place of plug and being sure it is all the way in, 4th depress the gas pedal until it makes 5 to 6 rotations and proceed thru the other 7 plugs. 5 th remove the coil wire to prevent the engine from starting. 6th should I disconnect the fuel line because each time I test a cylinder I am washing the oil off the cylinder wall with fuel. I should have made this 1 st----warm engine to normal operating temp. If I get a low reading such as 90psi and should be 155 psi. After all cylinders are checked come back to the low cylinders and add a tablespoon of 30 wt oil and hit starter for two rotations to proper distribute the oil. Now screw in the compression gauge for 5 or 6 rotations. If I get something like a 45 psi rise in pressure, then I can conclude air is leaking past the rings. If I only get 5psi then it would be a valve. Not sure if that would be a intake or exhaust valve or could be both. Should I somehow disconnect the gas line, because each time I depress the gas pedal it squirts gas into the cylinders, washing" oil" off the walls of the cylinders. Am I leaving anything out or doing anything wrong. I am on vacation but will be back to do the test Monday. This is a new re build and I am anxious. ]]> Buick - Post War btate http://forums.aaca.org/f162/what-your-method-do-compression-test-350851.html Shift Linkage Problem?? http://forums.aaca.org/f162/shift-linkage-problem-350800.html Fri, 10 May 2013 05:04:25 GMT I noticed this today.....


]]> Buick - Post War shadetree77 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/shift-linkage-problem-350800.html 1953 Dynaflow Speedometer hookup part http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1953-dynaflow-speedometer-hookup-part-350784.html Fri, 10 May 2013 01:33:54 GMT Was going to hookup the speedometer cable but noticed the Dynaflow seems to be missing a part? Could someone take a look at the photo and tell me if... Was going to hookup the speedometer cable but noticed the Dynaflow seems to be missing a part? Could someone take a look at the photo and tell me if there is a threaded part that goes where I've indicated. And then the cable screws on to said part? Do I have the installation procedure correct in my head? And if so, any ideas where I might pick this part up? Thanks!

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]]> Buick - Post War WillBilly53 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1953-dynaflow-speedometer-hookup-part-350784.html Water Leak at Rear of Engine - 1991 Roadmaster http://forums.aaca.org/f162/water-leak-rear-engine-1991-roadmaster-350764.html Thu, 09 May 2013 17:51:23 GMT My 1991 Roadmaster Wagon has sprung a leak! A big one. The odd thing is that the water appears to be coming from the top rear of the engine, up... My 1991 Roadmaster Wagon has sprung a leak! A big one. The odd thing is that the water appears to be coming from the top rear of the engine, up against the firewall. It is the 305 ci (5.0 L) V8, not the 350 used in 1992 and 1993, nor the LT1 used in 1994-1996. I can't even see where it is leaking. I have a bad feeling about this. I can fill it up but it starts to overheat within 10 minutes, hissing and steaming from somewhere by the firewall. There is no water in the oil, which rules out a head gasket, and I can see the heater hoses and they look all right. Any ideas where this water could be coming from?

PS: Please don't say freeze plug, because I'd have to pull the engine to fix it. ]]> Buick - Post War TxBuicks http://forums.aaca.org/f162/water-leak-rear-engine-1991-roadmaster-350764.html <![CDATA[What is idle rpm's--- important to know for vacuum readings]]> http://forums.aaca.org/f162/what-idle-rpms-important-know-vacuum-350752.html Thu, 09 May 2013 14:17:14 GMT The word idle is used a lot and I know the service manual states idle at 450 rpm at least on an 264 ci nailhead. What would it be with a/c added. I... The word idle is used a lot and I know the service manual states idle at 450 rpm at least on an 264 ci nailhead. What would it be with a/c added. I found a chart that gave proper vacuum pressures requirements and RPM was listed 800 to 1200. That is a big spread. The chart listed 17 to 21 as proper vacuum. At about 450 rpm my vacuum runs about 14 to 15 but speed up the idle to 800 and rpm goes to 18 and 1200 rpm goes to 20. It seems many times things are too vague. Help me clear this one up. Thanks Bill ]]> Buick - Post War btate http://forums.aaca.org/f162/what-idle-rpms-important-know-vacuum-350752.html Carter WCD Choke help http://forums.aaca.org/f162/carter-wcd-choke-help-350693.html Wed, 08 May 2013 13:42:08 GMT I am trying to hook up my choke stove pipe and i am having some issues finding the correct hardware. I am looking for a 3/16 flare nut with 1/2 20... I am trying to hook up my choke stove pipe and i am having some issues finding the correct hardware. I am looking for a 3/16 flare nut with 1/2 20 female threads. Every 3/16 flare nut i can find is 3/8 24 thread. I bought a kit from old buick parts in hope it had the correct nut and it does not. Also bought a universal kit from dorman and no luck. Am i overlooking something here?? I have the 3/16 line coming the manifold all done and ready but i cant figure a way to attach it to the carb.

Its a 52 buick 263 straight eight with a Carter WCD carb. ]]> Buick - Post War flintbuick http://forums.aaca.org/f162/carter-wcd-choke-help-350693.html 56 back together. http://forums.aaca.org/f162/56-back-together-350556.html Mon, 06 May 2013 00:47:01 GMT I got the Buick home from storage in town. Put in the NOS headlight switch, got the rebuilt radio and clock in, they work good, as does the... I got the Buick home from storage in town. Put in the NOS headlight switch, got the rebuilt radio and clock in, they work good, as does the speedometer I had rebuilt last fall. GOt it back in before putting it in storage. Nice to have everything working. BUT the power steering pump was sorta noisy, was low on fluid, so hope that takes care of that. Now if it will just warm up for some crusin'. What happened to 'global warming'? Bypassed Nebraska. ]]> Buick - Post War gunjeep444 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/56-back-together-350556.html <![CDATA[Advice needed-'58 Nailhead]]> http://forums.aaca.org/f162/advice-needed-58-nailhead-350554.html Mon, 06 May 2013 00:08:06 GMT After giving up on getting my '58 to run right, I sent it off to the mechanic last week.

I got their recommendation on Friday. They advise an engine rebuild due to it only running on 4 cylinders.

After adjusting the dwell, points gap and timing, they got the engine to idle, but according to their engine test, 4 cylinders are not firing properly. They said the spark is ok. They did not give me their compression numbers, but I tested it before I sent it off and had 1 cylinder at 120 with the others betweek 140 and 165. That's virtually the same as my '59 with similar mileage and that car has driven us all over the country with no problems.

They said they tested the compression and several cylinders went up with addition of oil, which I believe.

I realize optimal compression would be all 8 cylinders above 150, but would compression of over 100 fail to fire?

The mechanic is not a nailhead expert by any means, so I am leary of having them do a full rebuild, plus the cost is going to be prohibitive.

One piece of advice I've received is do rebuild the heads and go from there.

3 questions:
-On a budget, would you just rebuild the heads? (This has to be done anyway if we continue with a full rebuild and should cost little additional in tear down/assembly if we have to do the next step, right?)

-Where would you source replacement parts if needed? I have read other threads that have horror stories about modern rebuild parts. Again, budget is a concern so I may not be able to use Carmen Faso, Russ Martin, or Tom Telesco parts.

-What is a reasonable cost for having the heads rebuilt?

I have to call the mechanic tomorrow and let him know my decision.

Worst case, I drive it home and wait until I can afford the rebuild. :( ]]> Buick - Post War bhclark http://forums.aaca.org/f162/advice-needed-58-nailhead-350554.html Advice Needed On Cracked Manifold Part http://forums.aaca.org/f162/advice-needed-cracked-manifold-part-350548.html Sun, 05 May 2013 22:46:50 GMT I had to take apart the intake/exhaust manifold on my '52 straight eight to replace the gaskets and paint everything. When I got the valve body off I noticed that it was significantly cracked. I haven't done anything to it to make it crack so I guess it was already like this. I took a few pictures. So what should I do with this? I sure can't afford to buy a reproduction and these things aren't growing on trees. Should I take it to a machine shop and get them to do some welding on the crack? Or should I just leave it alone, bolt everything back up, and keep an eye out for a used one? I do have a mig welder but I don't think I have the welding skills to fix this. Any advice would be much appreciated. Or if you happen to have an extra valve body lying around.....:rolleyes:
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]]> Buick - Post War shadetree77 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/advice-needed-cracked-manifold-part-350548.html Suspension http://forums.aaca.org/f162/suspension-350452.html Fri, 03 May 2013 21:12:43 GMT Will a 1954 Skylark be happy with a standard 1954 buick suspension kit? The control arms look like they were modified and welded? Will a 1954 Skylark be happy with a standard 1954 buick suspension kit? The control arms look like they were modified and welded? ]]> Buick - Post War Quick67 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/suspension-350452.html 1955 Carter Carburetors http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1955-carter-carburetors-350336.html Wed, 01 May 2013 23:37:41 GMT I see in the literature that the 1955 Buicks with the larger engine used two different Carter carburetors, a 2197S or a 2358S. Is one preferable to... I see in the literature that the 1955 Buicks with the larger engine used two different Carter carburetors, a 2197S or a 2358S. Is one preferable to the other? Why two choices? According to my Carter book, the 2358S requires a smaller spark plug gap than the 2197S but other than that I see no differences.

Just curious. ]]> Buick - Post War packick http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1955-carter-carburetors-350336.html 53 Buick radio antenna lead in wire http://forums.aaca.org/f162/53-buick-radio-antenna-lead-wire-350319.html Wed, 01 May 2013 21:19:24 GMT Hi-I'm looking for advice on finding a 53 radio antenna to radio wire. It is the kind which connects to the antenna body with a female threaded collar. The antenna male threaded port has an O. D. of about .550 inches with fine threads.

Am willing to buy used with or without an antenna.
The good news I got the electric antenna to work properly.
thanks
Marty Lum
marty@oldercar.com
717-729-4080 ]]> Buick - Post War martylum http://forums.aaca.org/f162/53-buick-radio-antenna-lead-wire-350319.html GM BOP Trim Fasteners http://forums.aaca.org/f162/gm-bop-trim-fasteners-350301.html Wed, 01 May 2013 15:35:37 GMT I am trying to find replacements for the fasteners used to hold the top edge of the chrome trim piece that runs along the front of the hood on a ... I am trying to find replacements for the fasteners used to hold the top edge of the chrome trim piece that runs along the front of the hood on a '55 Olds. These clips look like a dead cockroach lying on it's back (see attached photo). I haven't been able to find replacements locally. Do you know where I can get replacements? Thanks. ]]> Buick - Post War shoreman http://forums.aaca.org/f162/gm-bop-trim-fasteners-350301.html 1953 Hood Underside photos please? http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1953-hood-underside-photos-please-350182.html Mon, 29 Apr 2013 23:56:28 GMT Could someone with a '53 post a photo of the underside of their hood? I'm having trouble attaching the two bars and triangular shaped cover piece. I think the triangular piece helps stabilize the hood ornament. I can't remember how it all goes and I don't see anything in my manual or parts book. I could have sworn I took photos, but alas I did not (or they accidentally got deleted) At your leisure of course. Thanks! ]]> Buick - Post War WillBilly53 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1953-hood-underside-photos-please-350182.html 1955 Trunk/Spare Tire Questions http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1955-trunk-spare-tire-questions-350178.html Mon, 29 Apr 2013 23:17:46 GMT I ordered trunk fabric,crosstich taupe w/black, from SMS. Looks near match. The side panels on my trunk are fabric covered cardboard, looks factory,... I ordered trunk fabric,crosstich taupe w/black, from SMS. Looks near match. The side panels on my trunk are fabric covered cardboard, looks factory, never seen another car like that? Other 55's side panels are bare textured cardboard, that right?
Floorpan has several factory made holes covered with a filler, which is no longer sticking to the pan. What can I use that is similar to cover these holes?
The spare tire well is finished in a tan textured paint which is coming up in some spots. I removed the loose stuff and the surface rust. What can that be refinished with?
I have 8.20's on the car and the spare is snug in the well. Didn't come with a spare and maybe not original jack. Anyone have a picture of a spare/jack setup the way it's supposed to be?
Lotta question for a trunk,I know.
Thanks in advance
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]]> Buick - Post War Paul Falabella http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1955-trunk-spare-tire-questions-350178.html 1954 Skylark wheel wells http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1954-skylark-wheel-wells-350141.html Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:50:22 GMT My project car was purchased from the origional owner. He states that when he bought it from dealer it had chrome wheel wells (still has them). Has... My project car was purchased from the origional owner. He states that when he bought it from dealer it had chrome wheel wells (still has them). Has anyone ever heard of this? It was number 40 off the line. ]]> Buick - Post War Quick67 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1954-skylark-wheel-wells-350141.html 248 wont turn again http://forums.aaca.org/f162/248-wont-turn-again-350118.html Sun, 28 Apr 2013 20:39:52 GMT Once again my motor wont turn over without a crowbar but this tme its in the car. the crank was machined down, got new poured bearing connecting... Once again my motor wont turn over without a crowbar but this tme its in the car. the crank was machined down, got new poured bearing connecting rods, new main bearings,piston rings. everything is torqued to scpec per the book. i confermed everything with a freind thats been helping me and he agrees that everything is right were it should be. the starter wont turn it, you can here it engage the fly wheel. we hooked a tow rope up to it and dragged it down the strret and still wont turn over. what am i missing. do i have things to tight? any one else have this problem? this car has been fight tooth and nail through this entire process. HELP!!!! ]]> Buick - Post War countrywill http://forums.aaca.org/f162/248-wont-turn-again-350118.html 55 Fuel Pump Cover Leak http://forums.aaca.org/f162/55-fuel-pump-cover-leak-350110.html Sun, 28 Apr 2013 17:25:53 GMT Took the Buick out today for a short trip - its been out a few time this year, and its been run in the garage also. It was about 70 out here, and a... Took the Buick out today for a short trip - its been out a few time this year, and its been run in the garage also. It was about 70 out here, and a few miles down the road the engine started surging - kind of like a vapor lock symptom on a hot day. I hit the electric pump and it went away. Turned the pump back off - and shortly thereafter the problem came back. Turned pump back on. Hmmm - not typical, dont see vapor lock unless its like 85-90 out, turned and headed for home. About a mile from the house, picked up a faint smell of gas. Got the car home, popped the hood, and saw water pouring through the front of the radiator. Water? Coolant leak too? No way, that was gas. Jeepers cats - shut everything down. Don't do anything to make a spark.

Gas had been shooting from between the top of the housing and the top cover. It was probably dribbling when the electric pump was off, and flowing freely all over the radiator when the pump was on. This is the second time this has happened. The first time, upon removing the top cover, it looked like the cover gasket had shifted and gas leaked out. I had taken the cover off back then, ran it over a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface to make sure the cover was perfectly flat - which at that time it was not. The gasket is rubber and was in good shape - pliable - no rips or tears. Applied some fuel tolerant sealant and glued the gasket to the cover, put it all back together, torqued all the screws evenly in a pattern. That was about 2 years and 1500 miles ago. And here we are again. This time, the gasket was still in place, and I am not sure what went wrong. I reran the cover over a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and noticed there was a new "low spot". Hmmm - thought we took care of that last time. Ran a few more strokes until it was flat, the gasket looks good, still pliable with an indentation showing where it sealed to the housing - and have just resealed it to the cover. Its drying now.

Any advice before I bolt it back to the pump housing? This is supposed to be simple like dirt. What do you torque the cover screws to (I have the early fuel pump with 6 screws on the cover vs the dome with 1 screw in the middle). Am positive there are lockwashers on there. Am I missing something subtle?

Perhaps for a fail safe, one could install a pressure switch downstream of the pump that would prevent the electric pump from turning on if the line could not hold pressure, that might complicate things though when the pump is used to prime the system after the car has sat for awhile unless a bypass switch of some sort was added.

Lesson learned - if your car acts up with what seems like a fuel delivery problem during a time when there shouldn't be one, think twice before hitting that electric pump switch to rescue yourself. Pay attention and KNOW YOUR CAR. If something seems odd, pull over and check the pump and line integrity first. And carry a fire extinguisher. Boy oh boy if that leak were spraying into the generator or the hot manifold - poof! - you guys could have a field day buyin tasty crispy fried 55 buick parts on eBay. ]]> Buick - Post War KAD36 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/55-fuel-pump-cover-leak-350110.html 1954 inner fender http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1954-inner-fender-350080.html Sat, 27 Apr 2013 23:11:51 GMT I wish to repaint fender well on 1954 skylark. Engine is out. Is it as easy as unbolting from fender or is it involved with steering box? I had... I wish to repaint fender well on 1954 skylark. Engine is out. Is it as easy as unbolting from fender or is it involved with steering box? I had origionally posted in General by mistake, ]]> Buick - Post War Quick67 http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1954-inner-fender-350080.html