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		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 21:22:33 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Help finding horn contact brush</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/help-finding-horn-contact-brush-351352.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 01:48:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Team, 
trying to find a part needed to complete my horn assembly... I think it's called a horn contact brush... A plate, with a screw and copper/...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Team,<br />
trying to find a part needed to complete my horn assembly... I think it's called a horn contact brush... A plate, with a screw and copper/ brass brush as pictured...<br />
thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>CDN224</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/help-finding-horn-contact-brush-351352.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Invicta steering wheel</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/invicta-steering-wheel-351254.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 20:57:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 59 invicta that is missing the parts of the horn ring that hold the ring on.  Does someone have a picture of those parts or spares they want...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have a 59 invicta that is missing the parts of the horn ring that hold the ring on.  Does someone have a picture of those parts or spares they want to sell<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>chuck bigelow</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/invicta-steering-wheel-351254.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>1936 chevy standard throttle linkage</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1936-chevy-standard-throttle-linkage-351190.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 00:27:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Having trouble hooking up my throttle linkage for my 36 chevy std.  Can anyone send me a picture or tell me how the 2 "L" shaped pieces go...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><font size="4">Having trouble hooking up my throttle linkage for my 36 chevy std.  Can anyone send me a picture or tell me how the 2 "L" shaped pieces go together?:confused:</font><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>01vette</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1936-chevy-standard-throttle-linkage-351190.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>1912 engine valves; how would you go about this?...</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1912-engine-valves-how-would-you-351107.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 14 May 2013 00:01:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>1912 model 29 Buick 4 cyl. It is an old Glidden tour car(1954) but not run since 60s? 
 
2 stuck exhaust valves. It is a headless motor.  
 
#4 exh...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->1912 model 29 Buick 4 cyl. It is an old Glidden tour car(1954) but not run since 60s?<br />
<br />
2 stuck exhaust valves. It is a headless motor. <br />
<br />
#4 exh valve stem was peened over, and it was smashed, and bent the stem in a spiral bend. That broke the raised thin "tube" part of the guide off. Then on the lowest part of the guide, a cresent shaped piece broke off and was on the piston. But the motor was never run after it fell in, so the chunk did not hurt the piston.<br />
<br />
I used a 1970s-80s Chevy 4wd front wheel bearing socket, to get the castle shaped retainer nuts off on the 2 stuck valves. I was able to use large pry bars to pull loose the whole valve ass'y in the one that was smashed.<br />
<br />
The other stuck one, #3 exh, has it's slotted hole in the stem, facing in a bad spot, so I can't use bars to pull it up like the other one.<br />
<br />
I guess I need to make a threaded puller to pull straight up on the last stuck valve? I would stick a hardened piece of metal in the slot in the stem, then find a way to grip it with the puller?<br />
<br />
<br />
How to fix the smashed valve and broken guide? These valves have a very stepped shape to the valve stem. That big end is where they seem to rust solid, and I guess that is why the cresent chunk broke like it did?<br />
<br />
I suppose I could rework a different automobile straight stem valve, and then make a new valve guide "liner" and press it into the housing, after I bore a new oversize hole?<br />
<br />
<br />
Ok, most would say tear the motor down to go through the whole engine, but the owner said who knows what else is wrong like trans, clutch and rear axle. So he would like to get the engine to run enough, to test the drivetrain function.<br />
<br />
What would you do to test run the engine enough to test the rest of the mechanicals?<br />
<br />
In the morning, I plan to see if the front cylinders still have any compression.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[F&J]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1912-engine-valves-how-would-you-351107.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>powerglide manual shifting mods</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/powerglide-manual-shifting-mods-351086.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 13 May 2013 16:03:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello; i was told that the valve body on a stock power glide can easily be modified to make manual shifts? is there any way to inspect a torque...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello; i was told that the valve body on a stock power glide can easily be modified to make manual shifts? is there any way to inspect a torque converter for damage or abuse?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>richard gray</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/powerglide-manual-shifting-mods-351086.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>250 powerglide mods</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/250-powerglide-mods-351020.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 12 May 2013 17:10:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello i have a 1967 chev acadian 250 powerglide  to beef up. what starter and flex plate would fit( 350 turbo?)    part numbers?250 parts hard to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello i have a 1967 chev acadian 250 powerglide  to beef up. what starter and flex plate would fit( 350 turbo?)    part numbers?250 parts hard to find. 350 input shaft will fit? it has a stronger tailshaft< short trans? after market alum plate at rear no real tail shaft sticks out? want a manual valve body shift kit. and shifter.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>richard gray</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/250-powerglide-mods-351020.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>52 Hudson Stuck Temp Sensor</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/52-hudson-stuck-temp-sensor-350992.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 12 May 2013 01:55:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[hello everyone -- this is my first time and first day on the site -- I started my kid's great-grandfather's hornet last sunday after working on it...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->hello everyone -- this is my first time and first day on the site -- I started my kid's great-grandfather's hornet last sunday after working on it for about a year -- today installed a new pertronix ignition -- it is now running great!  I want to install a new temp gage and know how to do so, but the old sensor unit is stuck bad -- really, really bad.  I am starting to think I may be doing something wrong.  Can anyone tell me if the sensor unit screws right into the head?  How do I get that darn thing out?  Thanks everyone!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>chrishanlon</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/52-hudson-stuck-temp-sensor-350992.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Carburetor identification</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/carburetor-identification-350898.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 20:58:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>There was a question concerning Schebler carburetor identification in another thread. A link was posted to a website which supplied some confusing...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->There was a question concerning Schebler carburetor identification in another thread. A link was posted to a website which supplied some confusing information. I have since updated the information on my website to include Schebler and Marvel/Schebler carburetor identification.<br />
<br />
Here is the link:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carburetor_ID.htm" target="_blank">THE CARBURETOR SHOP / Carburetor Identification</a><br />
<br />
This link is for your information. If you find it confusing, please let me know, and possibly I can make it less (or more :p) confusing.<br />
<br />
Jon.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>carbking</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/carburetor-identification-350898.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Best and safest way to clean and restore original paint on 28 dodge coupe</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/best-safest-way-clean-restore-original-350878.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 13:19:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an all original dodge coupe with original paint, it needs some form of deep but gentle paint cleaning to bring back what is there and protect...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have an all original dodge coupe with original paint, it needs some form of deep but gentle paint cleaning to bring back what is there and protect the metal that is exposed in some places.  What do you guys reccomend using?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>BretK</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Bimetallic spring for '37 Dodge? Modern?]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/bimetallic-spring-37-dodge-modern-350860.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 01:00:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone have any experience with the bimetallic manifold spring for a '37 Dodge- what modern equivalent works?   Thanks- Jim]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Does anyone have any experience with the bimetallic manifold spring for a '37 Dodge- what modern equivalent works?   Thanks- Jim<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>fozz71</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/bimetallic-spring-37-dodge-modern-350860.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Rim Breaking tool for Wooden wheels</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/rim-breaking-tool-wooden-wheels-350855.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 10 May 2013 23:58:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Could someone please help me by posting a photo of a tool that I can make for breaking the rim on wooden wheels - have Chrysler 52 (1928 model) fully...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Could someone please help me by posting a photo of a tool that I can make for breaking the rim on wooden wheels - have Chrysler 52 (1928 model) fully restored and now doing Chrysler 66 (1930 model) and am having difficulty in breaking the rim to remove the old tyres on the 66 - didn't have any problems with the 52 but just cannot manage this one as it is totally different to the 52 - any help would be appreciated - thank you<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>WallyScott</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/rim-breaking-tool-wooden-wheels-350855.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1953 skylark ground clearance</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1953-skylark-ground-clearance-350823.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 10 May 2013 15:16:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Recently I saw in an Aug. 01 Cars & Parts magazine that the 53' "s is 7". I knew that the Skylark was lower than the other models but I didn't how...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Recently I saw in an Aug. 01 Cars &amp; Parts magazine that the 53' "s is 7". I knew that the Skylark was lower than the other models but I didn't how much. Is 7" correct?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>buickhenry</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1953-skylark-ground-clearance-350823.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Valve Guide Remover</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/valve-guide-remover-350750.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 09 May 2013 14:05:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
any out there who know where to find this tool. I need it for my 1946 Lincoln Continental V12.Attachment 192463...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi,<br />
any out there who know where to find this tool. I need it for my 1946 Lincoln Continental V12.<a href="http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f120/192463d1368108156-valve-guide-remover-p53.jpg" id="attachment192463" rel="Lightbox_0" ><img src="http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f120/192463d1368108156t-valve-guide-remover-p53.jpg" border="0" alt="Click image for larger version.&nbsp;

Name:	p53.jpg&nbsp;
Views:	40&nbsp;
Size:	541.0 KB&nbsp;
ID:	192463" class="thumbnail" style="float:CONFIG" /></a><br />
Please answer to <a href="mailto:janmichael56@gmail.com">janmichael56@gmail.com</a><br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
Michael<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>IV Porte</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/valve-guide-remover-350750.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Rear cushion removal '64 Riviera]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/rear-cushion-removal-64-riviera-350637.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 12:52:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello all, 
 
I am new here to this great forum. I just purchased a '64 Riviera that does not have seat belts. I found the seat belts I want to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello all,<br />
<br />
I am new here to this great forum. I just purchased a '64 Riviera that does not have seat belts. I found the seat belts I want to install, but just need a little advice on how to correctly (and safely) remove the rear seat cushions in order to install lap belts. Any advice will be most appreciated. Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>dwhiteside64</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/rear-cushion-removal-64-riviera-350637.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[1931 Plymouth PA side shaft & bearings]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1931-plymouth-pa-side-shaft-bearings-350634.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 11:10:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi All. Can anybody help me understand how to get the rear side shaft bearings out from the axel. Please also explain how to set the adjustments when...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi All. Can anybody help me understand how to get the rear side shaft bearings out from the axel. Please also explain how to set the adjustments when installing new bearings. All the do and donts will be appreciated. <br />
<br />
Thanks <br />
Dravid<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>dravid</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1931-plymouth-pa-side-shaft-bearings-350634.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Fuses what amp</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/fuses-what-amp-350540.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 May 2013 18:52:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*Hi my 1938 Pontiac has under the dash 2 fuses attached to the light switch plate. 
 
according to my user's guide the # 1. fuse for all electrical...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><b>Hi my 1938 Pontiac has under the dash 2 fuses attached to the light switch plate.<br />
<br />
according to my user's guide the # 1. fuse for all electrical units except left headlamp.<br />
# 2. fuse for left headlamp only.<br />
what amp fuses would I use for these ?<br />
what amp fuse would I use in my radio head ?<br />
   thank for you help,, PETE</b><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>PetePontiac</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/fuses-what-amp-350540.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Vinyl Roof sound-deadener?</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/vinyl-roof-sound-deadener-350506.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 May 2013 19:58:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am helping my moms boyfriend restore his 1976 Lincoln Mark IV. The vinyl roof is all cracked up and flaking off. This car was his dads car so he...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am helping my moms boyfriend restore his 1976 Lincoln Mark IV. The vinyl roof is all cracked up and flaking off. This car was his dads car so he wants it to look brand new. He has replacement vinyl for the roof, but underneath the roof is a sound deadening(I guess to stop windnoise). Any idea where you can get sound deadening that has been pre-cut for the car? Originality is everything for this restoration. Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>FourDoorBoris</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/vinyl-roof-sound-deadener-350506.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>58 Oldsmobile</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/58-oldsmobile-350491.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 May 2013 14:38:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi and thanks in advance. may be a dumb question ,but having trouble pulling out the oil dip stick on the 58 Olds. 371 motor just will not come out...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi and thanks in advance. may be a dumb question ,but having trouble pulling out the oil dip stick on the 58 Olds. 371 motor just will not come out and hope not to brake it!!!!!!!! Any Tips.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>tommie b</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/58-oldsmobile-350491.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>On the subject of condensors</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/subject-condensors-350481.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 May 2013 12:18:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I Have this page of documentation from an early Auto Lite book. My questions are: How do you test a condenser? Can I test the condenser with my Fluke...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I Have this page of documentation from an early Auto Lite book. My questions are: How do you test a condenser? Can I test the condenser with my Fluke multi-meter? Can condensers be purchased with a known value?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>Curti</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/subject-condensors-350481.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Antique License Plate Installation - Backer Plate Needed</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/antique-license-plate-installation-backer-plate-350439.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 May 2013 15:30:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm looking to install a 1948 Connecticut license plate on my car.     My car is a 48 Cadillac and the brackets on the car really need a backer plate...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm looking to install a 1948 Connecticut license plate on my car.     My car is a 48 Cadillac and the brackets on the car really need a backer plate to support the license plate adequately.    The plate measures approximately 9.125" x 5.875" and is too small for any conventional backer plate that I've seen.   Does anyone know of a source for small backer plates to accommodate a plate of this size?    Other suggestions appreciated as well.<br />
<br />
Thanks, <br />
Ed Wisniewski<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>48Ragtop</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/antique-license-plate-installation-backer-plate-350439.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need help with u-joint replacement</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/need-help-u-joint-replacement-350347.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 May 2013 01:07:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 1928 Studebaker Dictator, and the u-joint has a lot of "play" at the transmission.  It appears to me that I need to remove the casing that...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have a 1928 Studebaker Dictator, and the u-joint has a lot of "play" at the transmission.  It appears to me that I need to remove the casing that covers the u-joint and yoke, 6 bolts that go through the emergency brake cylinder.  After taking the 6 bolts out of the casing, I am at a loss as to how to remove it.  You need to know that the casing is spliting and may be in at least two pieces.  Does anyone know if the front u-joint can be removed from the front, without removing the drive shaft at the rear axle??   And, does anyone know how much "play" is normal when one turns the drive shaft from just behind the front u-joint?????   I have an original parts book and a reproduction service manual, but not one word about servicing the u-joints.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>deburt65</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/need-help-u-joint-replacement-350347.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Is this coolant leak repairable or am I in trouble?</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/coolant-leak-repairable-am-i-trouble-350320.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 21:20:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello -  
 
I noticied upon starting my '48  Studebaker that white smoke was coming out from under the hood.  I quickly noticied that there was...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello - <br />
<br />
I noticied upon starting my '48  Studebaker that white smoke was coming out from under the hood.  I quickly noticied that there was coolant 'burning' off directly center to the intake manifold.  It wasn't dripping down from the headgasket as far as I could tell.  I removed the intake/exhaust manifold and refilled the coolant - and it looks like the culprit is located just above the stud in the center of this picture.  I can see where someone did some filling in previously by welding, but as you can see from the 'wetness' just below the fix, it apparently isn't working. Is there anything that I can do from the outside, or am I screwed?!?<br />
<br />
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<br />
Robert<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>Echo Robert</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/coolant-leak-repairable-am-i-trouble-350320.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Chrysler Rumble Seat</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/chrysler-rumble-seat-350299.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 15:10:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>When I purchased my 1928 Chrysler Rumble Seat Coupe Model 62, most of the wood was rotten and/or missing.  There was a metal trough-like piece...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->When I purchased my 1928 Chrysler Rumble Seat Coupe Model 62, most of the wood was rotten and/or missing.  There was a metal trough-like piece sitting on top of the gas tank behind the rumble seat.  It wasn't attached to anything. It's about 41" long, 6" wide and around 4" deep.  Can anyone tell me where this piece should be go and what it is supposed to be attached to?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>oldcar1928</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/chrysler-rumble-seat-350299.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Carburtror Leaking</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/carburtror-leaking-350289.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 12:36:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 35 Auburn six cylinder with a Carter W1 307s.  Prior to installing the carb I took the top off for inspection and at that time removed every...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have a 35 Auburn six cylinder with a Carter W1 307s.  Prior to installing the carb I took the top off for inspection and at that time removed every plug that I could, and blew carb cleaner thru every orifice.  I put it on the car and test run it in my shop. The car runs like a clock.  I have an Airtex electric pump that runs through stock a working AC pump, with no regulator. I have this combination on other Auburns that utilize Stromberg EE1 and EX32 with no problem.  Now I drive a mile or so and gas in poring out of the top of the carb. (this is scary)  A needle and seat problem. Strange that it will run in the shop just fine and drive it and it leaks.  Can a person buy just a needle and seat for a W1?  Or maybe, I should send the carb to a builder? Does any one know a good  Carter rebuilder.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>Curti</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/carburtror-leaking-350289.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1948 Series 62 Cadillac VIN Number Question</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1948-series-62-cadillac-vin-number-350285.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 11:47:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've found the VINnumbers on my car - on the engine block and also on the frame rail on the right side of the motor near the starter.  <o:p></o:p>...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman">I've found the VINnumbers on my car - on the engine block and also on the frame rail on the right side of the motor near the starter.  <o:p></o:p></span></font><br />
<o:p></o:p><br />
<font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman">The VIN Number on the frame is visible butvery difficult to read.   I’m assuming it is stamped into the metaland not painted on, is that correct?   I’d like to clean it a bitwith the hopes of improving visibility.    I naturally don’twant to wipe it away if for some reason it happened to be painted on.<br />
<br />
Appreciate any input on this.<br />
<br />
Thanks, <br />
<br />
Ed Wisniewski<br />
48Ragtop</span></font><br />
<o:p></o:p><br />
<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>48Ragtop</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1948-series-62-cadillac-vin-number-350285.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1930 Model A have trouble with condeser</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1930-model-have-trouble-condeser-350278.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 05:25:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Please I need help, The car runs great, I will go out drive for a while and all is ok, every so often when I try to start the car it wont start, chek...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Please I need help, The car runs great, I will go out drive for a while and all is ok, every so often when I try to start the car it wont start, chek for spark and always find my conderser is bad.<br />
Can someone please help me find ou what is wrong?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>Libnmar</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1930-model-have-trouble-condeser-350278.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Brake lamp switch</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/brake-lamp-switch-350221.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 2013 10:34:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*hi , my break lights and tail lights do not work, I checked the break lamp switch 
on the master cylinder with a tester and I do have power to the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><b>hi , my break lights and tail lights do not work, I checked the break lamp switch<br />
on the master cylinder with a tester and I do have power to the short<br />
screw but no power to the tall screw, I believe the short screw go to the tail lights<br />
wires according to my wire diagram, this car is a 1938 Pontiac  " 6 " cylinder<br />
any help welcome,,<br />
maybe replacing the break lamp switch will help !!!<br />
thank you fellow car buffs</b><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>PetePontiac</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/brake-lamp-switch-350221.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Brass motor brush: looking to buy new replacement</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/brass-motor-brush-looking-buy-new-350207.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 2013 03:27:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Unit is a 1924 Delco motor generator. Motor brushes look like brass. They only contact the motor commutator when a pin forces the arms together. No...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Unit is a 1924 Delco motor generator. Motor brushes look like brass. They only contact the motor commutator when a pin forces the arms together. No solenoid -- a foot pedal causes the action. Anyway, as you can see in the pic, the left brush is worn so far that the arm is now acting as a brush also. I'd like to fix that. Does anyone know a source for new brushes to match these old? Many thanks, Mike Barnes, Vancouver<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>mbenseignant@gmail.com</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/brass-motor-brush-looking-buy-new-350207.html</guid>
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			<title>FUEL PUMP HELP</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/fuel-pump-help-350199.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 2013 02:06:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am trying to find a mechanical fuel pump for a small block chevy engine. A stock pump has the diaphram on the bottom of the pump.  I need a pump...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am trying to find a mechanical fuel pump for a small block chevy engine. A stock pump has the diaphram on the bottom of the pump.  I need a pump that has the diaphram on the top side of the pump.  Original type hits on frame rails.  350 in 41 ambassador. Thanks for any help<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forums.aaca.org/f120/">Technical</category>
			<dc:creator>billybobjohnson</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/fuel-pump-help-350199.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Dyna Beads</title>
			<link>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/dyna-beads-350188.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 2013 00:58:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Due to a bad balancing issue chewing up some of my Lesters prematurely I have stripped the Auburn's wire wheels to get a good look at them before...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Due to a bad balancing issue chewing up some of my Lesters prematurely I have stripped the Auburn's wire wheels to get a good look at them before installing new tires. Frankly, while not perfect, they don't seem all that bad to me. I am using the Firestone 650x17s this time, they have a nicer look and seem to have deeper tread to begin with. I haven't decided whether or not to mount them myself, but in any event am considering using Dyna Beads this time. Anybody have any experience with them? <a href="http://www.innovativebalancing.com/index.php" target="_blank">Tire Balancing Products</a><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
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			<dc:creator>Mike Dube</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forums.aaca.org/f120/dyna-beads-350188.html</guid>
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