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  2. AC Fuhrman

    Suggestions for wind wing glass?

    A friend lost a wind wing from his early roadster - (plate glass broke into a million pieces.) Luckily he still has the other side! Can anyone recommend a glass cutter/shop to reproduce these, (using the remaining one as a pattern?) I think it best to have these made from safety glass - could have been worse if it fell inside the car and broke rather than outside! East Coast US would make life easier. Thanks in advance.
  3. First car show of the season. One a top 25. Buick was well received.
  4. Here is the left side of one.
  5. JACK M

    What to use to clean this?

    A good pressure washing is just the ticket. You may need to scrub on the second go round.
  6. I'm in Michigan. Thanks for the offer but I'm going to cut off the search at 1922.
  7. Robert Worfel

    1929 Desoto hood latch

    still looking for 1929 Desoto hood latch.....thanks for checking....Bob 334-796-6749
  8. Daves1940Buick56S

    1908 Model 10 Coming Up For Auction

    Sounds like another bunch of collector's clueless children with dollar signs in their eyes. Maybe they will want to "dicker up" lol!! I do have a question, though. The Mod 10 is planetary transmission, right? How is it driven? Same as the T? What does the other side lever do? Cheers, Dave
  9. JACK M

    Clean tyres with white wall

    I use those soapy SOS pads.
  10. Lahti35

    '48 Packard value

    Here's the listing if anybody is interested, I'm passing on it.

    '65 Skylark Hubcap

    Looks like this:
  13. Temporary mock-up and attachment for works VERY well! Permanent to follow.
  14. Matt Harwood

    1941 Caddy "60 Special

    Or you could end up with a good car. Here are the last two 1941 Cadillac 60 Specials I bought, the first of which was AACA HPOF Car of the Year in 2012. Both were excellent cars that I regretted selling. The Antoinette Blue one on top was the HPOF car that was a mess when I got it, but it cleaned up well and with about $5000 worth of work, was bulletproof reliable. It had been in that barn for 15 years, put there by the brother of the mechanic who maintained it from new. When the original owner died, he willed it to that mechanic. Cool story. The black one on the bottom was in a body shop since 1996, covered, but otherwise unattended. Guy sent it to be painted and never came back for it. Eventually they got a mechanic's lien and I bought it from the body shop. Fresh 20 year old paint that had never seen daylight. I connected a battery, dumped some fuel down the carburetor throat, and it fired up instantly and ran almost silently. Another excellent car that I drove daily for two years. Don't discount the dust!
  15. Ronnie

    Wheel Alignment Shims

    I didn't mean to offend you with my comments. I was just talking about poor alignment jobs in general. Personally I seek out alignment shops that have mechanics that only do alignments and who are recognized as being the best at what they do.
  16. keiser31

    What to use to clean this?

  17. Today
  18. ChrisWhewell

    Wheel Alignment Shims

    To each their own. I did the same on my 98 Riv, came out dead nuts in spec on the machine. Pretty much, caster isn't going to be an issue. So you're left with camber and toe. Straighten the steering wheel, and just look at each wheel, separately from above, and together from the front from 20 feet away. For camber you need a buddy to tighten the bolts while you hold it where it needs to be. Toe is just a twist of the tie rod ends. This isn't rocket science.
  19. Ronnie

    Lack of pressure to front brakes

    It could be a problem with the ABS valves. You should check to see if you have any ABS codes. Report back with any codes you find. How To Check ABS Codes Also take the brake test at Let us know the results of the tests.
  20. dibarlaw


    Terry: I know we spoke of this before on the AC TITAN plugs. I thought that I sent you all of these scans of my Spark Plug information. What is maddening about the AC product at the time was that there was no model or type designation on the plugs. Only Identifier was on the original boxes. From what I have researched there are over (10) AC TITAN labeled plugs, all with different physical/electrical characteristics. The photo is from a 1923 retail catalog. The Plugs for Buick are to be the longer reach 78 LT or 78 LCP. This equates to a 7/8 thread Long body. CP is for Carbon Proof. The 2 piece plugs with renewable electrodes. It looks as though the plugs you show are 78 RT. Pretty much like the Autolite 3076s in reach and characteristics. The Autolite 3077s which you had at Allentown would be a better operating plug. Even with the shorter AC titan(notice the difference in height between the spark plug hole gasket surface to the top of the plug). The RAJA style clips and nuts if not insulated would short out to the spark plug cover. Note below special snap terminals for Buick. Below this is the correct period type plug for my 1925 Buick engines 1924 and up with detachable head. They have the same characteristics as the 78 LT but have a 7/8 Hex. Modern Autolite plugs 3076 and 3077 have a 15/16" hex. We were searching for the correct spark plug wrenches to go into tool kits. Never finding a 15/16. That was because the original plugs were 7/8" Hex. Your 1916, 1920 and 1922 originally had the 78 LT Titans with 1 1/8" hex. As in many cases when the plug manufactures changed the design of replacement plugs in the 1930s making the projecting part of the plug longer, many service mechanics threw away the original engine spark plug covers. After all this dissertation the plugs you have will work. I am not sure how the performance would be effected by using the shorter reach plug. The Autolite 3076 plugs are what have been in both my Master and Standard. I have 90 degree boots on them for insulation and they are still close to the cover.
  21. Frank Tate

    1955 Thunderbird Basket Case

    I think you are correct Roger. The right side was wire brushed and the left was blasted. Here is the EvapoRust treated part after sitting overnight. It certainly was easier to do a quick rinse and scrub with a scotchbrite! I am not sure what that discoloration is on the right side, but will see if it will come off with the wire brush. Looks ready to paint or powder coat.
  22. Steve_Mack_CT

    14 T Speedster Project in CT

    Jeff I tried to teach via PM a while back with my info. Had a serious guy from here but he dropped off after a few weeks of calls and emails, it happens... So I have been pulling my spares together and starting to play with it again - fun!! We were kind of thinking about another car but not this year is the latest on that. So I pulled the ads down, but missed this one. If your local and seriously interested PM me and I will kick around once more, but short term goal is get it running. I just bought rest of whats needed from Lang's, scare neighbors and if we like it, pull apart once more for paint & uphulstery and buy fenders. Thanks for the interest, and reminder to update this thread.
  23. JetSmooth61

    1965 Chevrolet Impala Sport Sedan

    $8000 - Nassau County, Long Island. Nice driver quality Impala with 82,000 miles. New York inspection good until 9/30/18. Six-cylinder, Powerglide, power steering and correct working 1965 Chevrolet AM/FM radio. The car was ordered with the optional all vinyl black interior. Assembled at Tarrytown during the third week of July, 1965. Sold new at Baldwin Chevrolet, Baldwin, Long Island in September 1965. I have the original bill of sale, the Fisher Body punch card and two recall notices from the dealer dated 1966. I also have the original owner's manual and owner protection plan booklet with the protecto-plate. The paperwork I have shows that the original owner lived in Long Island and moved to New Hampshire with the car in 1974. It changed hands twice in New Hampshire before I bought it there in 2014 and returned it to Long Island. A previous owner had a valve and ring job done in 2008, Since I bought the car I've had the following done: Rebuilt Carburetor Brakes redone - including new lines and master cylinder New Ciadella seat covers and seat foam installed New Ciadella carpet installed New fuel tank and sender installed New radio speaker installed Rear axle fluid and gasket changed Transmission pan gasket and filter replaced Grease fittings replaced Upper control arm bushings replaced Water pump replaced Belts and Hoses replaced Stabilizer links and strut rod bushings replaced Trunk weather strip replaced Heater switch replaced New tires (they're now four years old with only a few hundred miles on them) New exhaust system, including manifold The car was repainted in single stage urethane - new emblems and door handles were installed. The paint job was a color change - from Ermine White to Crocus Yellow. Why am I selling it after all that? For me half the fun of the hobby is buying and selling the cars. Another car wants to follow me home, but I have to make room for it. The car drives very nicely. It accelerates and shifts well. I've been pleased with the acceleration for a six-cylinder full-size car. The car could still use: the padded dash has started lifting at the corners. The headliner needs a repair on the passenger side sale panel. The center trunk floor has some rust. The rear doors don't always want to open. Please send a PM for more information or to make an appointment to see the car.
  24. Where are you located? Is a 1923 with a homemade wooden pick-up bed acceptable? PM me.
  25. pont35cpe

    Vacuum advance unit ‘38 Special

    Rodney, the problem is probably the 3 ball bearings the breaker plate pivots on, worn ball bearings and/or worn groove will cause problems. The vac. advance may be OK, just the breaker plate binding. There is an updated repair for this problem with plastic pivots instead of the ball bearings. Check item on ebay #382339057256, another option is the "Dyna-Flyte 880" distributor plate assembly, which in my opinion is the best way to go, they are pretty rare but do come up on ebay fairly often. There is a Dyna-Flyte 880D listed on ebay which is a dual point breaker plate.
  26. oldasdirt

    Lack of pressure to front brakes

    Hi. ..thanks to everyone for your help. ....both lights go out, and I have plenty of pressure to the beads out well. As I work through the different issues I inherited, from electrical issues created by the former owner, to things they damaged, I have to shake my head and laugh. I do have the original master. I wonder if they damaged the one on the car, when they tried compressed air. Since this system is new to me, I am treading lightly, as not cause unecessary work or damage parts. I did remove drivers pressure. I am patient, so I will keep working on it.
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