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  2. The correct size magneto?

    Sorry for the late reply, attached are the scans out of a British magneto book -I can't remember the title- with the details of the then current magneto dimensions. I've used this info a lot, and by comparing the magnetos in Fig. 197 & 198, with the different styles of shafts shown in Fig. 199, 200 & 201, and cross-referencing Table IX. A Bosch DU magneto and a ZU magneto have the same dimensions, so 45mm shaft height, 50mm square bolt pattern, 3/8"BSW mounting threads, the 'H' offset is 80mm, etc. A ZR will be similar, except they are higher than either a DU or ZR magneto. I remember the book was first published just after WW1 and the only mention of Bosch magnetos is on that first page, and the only place Germany is mentioned is in that table. It mentions just about every other magneto made at the time, just not Bosch. And where it says 'German nomenclature', that's just the Bosch magneto model. There are some exceptions to the rule, as there are some specialised magnetos made for particular applications, however, generally, most of the base-mounted magnetos fall into one of these categories Going back to what Layden said about larger magnetos having bigger armatures, stronger or more magnets, etc. which makes sense, as a larger engine is going to take more effort or be slower to crank over so that would be beneficial in starting that particular engine. It's not something I'd thought of before, but it makes sense. Early on, Bosch placed a lot of emphasis on their magnets, they had two or three side-by-side, then they also had magnets on top of magnets, etc.
  3. 1914 Buick B-37M Touring Sedan ignition info

    The whole distributor has to turn in order to advance and retard the spark so it has to be removable. I had a 6-cylinder Buick (about 1918) many years ago and, if I remember correctly, the distributor just lifted out. Now... to fix your problem, I would be inclined to measure the diameter of the distributor housing where it goes into the starter/generator unit. I would then look for a modern 4-cylinder distributor with the same diameter or ... close enough so that you can either have the hole bushed or the diameter turned down to fit the housing. You will almost certainly have to fit the gear on the bottom of your distributor shaft to the new distributor. I've done this sort of thing several times... it isn't the sort of thing most mechanics will attempt but it is doable and a lot less work than making an entire new distributor housing and machining it. You also will get the option of using an easily replaced distributor cap. I once used a Volkswagen distributor in a Northeast Electric Generator/Distributor unit on a 1915 REO.
  4. hello, yes when the restoration will start I will put it on the forum;). but this will work out in about 3 years, first I have to finish my buick, and after that you have to restore a Peugeot 205 gti 1984 from my father. and then its will be the turn of the juvaquattre
  5. Favorite Pictures of My Post War Buick

    I have a copy of the official Buick magazine dated November 1955 which had a photo of a dealership in an unidentified location. I did some research and found it not far from you, in Detroit, depending on your definition of IN Detroit.
  6. 1925 Torque specs

    Torque wrenches were not around until the early thirties. Most of the manuals said to tighten the bolts until the gasket didn't leak. The attachment might give you some information.
  7. original antique Cadillac Grease Cup Greaser

    It possibly could be. I should have added that the diameter of the body is 1".
  8. Today
  9. Dupont

    Have you seen this photograph? According to the note on the back, the older gentleman standing in front of the DuPont is Mr. DuPont himself. The photo was taken by Chapin Waldor at a very early car meet somewhere in the greater Boston area, probably around 1947. The Bugatti is pretty good too!
  10. 1931 Pontiac

    Taosgirl I think someone has shown you one way of starting your engine. There is no need to push two pedals on the floor. You need to have the parking brake on (lever pulled back), the transmission in neutral, pull out the choke knob (marked C) all the way, pull out the throttle knob (marked T) about 3/4", turn on the key and step on the starter button on the floor. The moment the engine starts push the choke in about three quarters and move the throttle knob in or out for the engine to run smoothly. After a minute or so push the throttle in all the way and just use the accelerator pedal from then on. If the engine has been running and is warm you should only pull the throttle out half an inch and don't use the choke.
  11. 1914 Locomobile spark plugs

    thanks
  12. 1929 Chevrloet 194 question

    Bearing shells do distort, all of them distort, you just have to know how to bring them back. Unless, your Bronze inserts were cracked, they would pour and machine like any other. His new shells would not be any better then what you had with the originals, and might have distorted worse. Herm.
  13. Driveshaft removal 1929 Desoto

    I'll post some photos tomorrow that may help.
  14. Identify these doors please

    And squarer edges on the windows.
  15. 1929 Chevrloet 194 question

    You can't just do one main, as the other two have to line up with that one. They also have to be Align Bored, and the crank touched up. The way that main looks anyway, the others are wore past what they should be. When crank mains wear, they do Not wear in Alignment. Who ever grinds your crank, make sure they stay with the true center line, and not indicate off a front, and rear crank journal, it won't work. Herm.
  16. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Thank you nzcarnerd Sorry, but I have little or no knowledge of my cars origin. I am endeavouring to learn as much as I can about it, but it's history is very vague. Only a very few people still alive seem to have even known of its existence prior to my purchase just a few weeks back. As a car exported to Australia when new in 1920 it was only driven up to 1942 and covered just 36016 miles in those 22 years. Engine Number shown on the registration disk, 2350 is correct. About 1,600 miles per year#. # For comparison, we have just last week driven that far in our 1934 Lagonda Rapier in five days. See also:- INTERNATIONAL MAKES & MODELS British (MG, Triumph, Jaguar, etc.) Lagonda Rapiers Bj..
  17. Hello Graham, Do you have the support bracket for your air cleaner???
  18. Tire dressing? (Do or Don'ts)

    i've tried a few. even using old brake fluid. nothing has impressed me yet.
  19. Identify these doors please

    Right you are. I was looking at Pierce images and only saw the doors. Pierce doors of the era all seemto be too high, for a top hat.
  20. ELECTRIC POWER STEERING

    dang. i did not know that such things were available for retro fit. my prius has it and it is weird. butt because of the mpg... i like it.
  21. What is this???

    Here are some additional pictures of my friends 1929 GE Dictator Cabriolet.
  22. Also known as a lineman's splice (I got there after following the link). That's a more generic name. As far as I know we didn't have Western Union north of the border, so that name would be somewhat foreign up here (until more recently with money transfer anyway).
  23. 1955 In Dash AC Install

    … Ken real nice write-up … and thought I was over the top about details … good work , oh and here is a link to help solve your clear coating of the aluminum compressor to keep it from chalking as aluminum will do : https://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Maxx-Clear.html
  24. 88 Black and Tan

    I have a 1988 Black and Tan with around 124,000 miles for sale and I would prefer that a fellow Reatta fan ends up with this car ... they know how to deal with these cars and how to appreciate them. This car has not run in the past 6 months probably due to a faulty fuel pump. The battery will need to be replaced as well. The windshield had a small crack which has now spread. The interior is in decent shape with not much wear. The paint on the hood and top are a bit faded from the Colorado sun but can be buffed out. There is a small dent just in front of the passenger side rear tire on the rocker panel. The tires are very very low mileage and look new, the CRT works fine, and the headlight motors have been rebuilt about three years ago. That is the goid and bad for this Reatta as complete as I can recall. Asking $1000.
  25. Identify these doors please

    Marmon liked aluminium - did they do bodies in it?
  26. Identify these doors please

    It would appear the Biddle and Smart Hudsons had suicide front doors too.
  27. Identify these doors please

    That car is too small to be a P-A. Looks more Maxwell size. Maybe you grabbed the wrong pic?
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